John Curtas is …

Coming at CHADA STREET

“Coming soon” is just what Asian food aficionados and Riesling rangers have been wanting to hear about Chada Street, Bank Atcharawan’s new street eats and fine wine emporium on Spring Mountain Road; it is not, however, something you want to blurt out loud once you’re inside the place.

But blurt it out we did last night after we were overcome with ecstasy upon tasting wave after wave of the unique Thai street food soon to be featured here.

And by “soon to be featured here” we mean the day after tomorrow. (Our meal was a special preview of the upcoming menu, put forth for yours truly, Young (Mitchell) Wilburn and the Food Gal®.)

Atcharawan along with brother Bon and Chef Aime Wanmaneesiri* had our eyes rolling back in our head from the get-go, with course after course of such street food stunners as Sai Oua (house-made, northern Thai herb sausage):

 
….Kao Pad Mun Pu (crab fat fried rice):
 
….and Hor Mok (Puket-style steamed, spicy fish curry):
 

…which was really a steamed, spicy fish custard, and as intriguing and sexy a fish dish as ELV (the man, the myth, the preeminent pepper poo-bah) has ever had.

It slid down our throat easier than a stripper on a pole and will give lie to anyone who thinks the words “fish” and “custard” don’t belong in the same sentence.

In all, we tasted over a dozen menu items and there wasn’t a clinker in the bunch. From the Tua Samun Prai (lemongrass and kaffir lime peanuts) you will be served when you start your meal, to a loosely bound spring rolls:

…called Por Pia Yuan on the menu and containing Thai “meatloaf” (a pressed pork roll of dubious breeding – like all Southeast Asian lunch meat), this will be Thai like you’ve never experienced it before. Not the same old same old overly sweet, gloppy Thai dishes that seem to come from some central kitchen somewhere in our sugar-obsessed heartland, but Thailand in all of its sour, hot and pungent glory.

“Too many Thai (restaurants) all taste alike,” said Bank. “I want people to see the food that regular people eat in Thailand.

And what they love to eat 13,312 km (8,304.3 miles) to our west is dipping sauces. Lots of them. In every configuration of vinegar, fish sauce, peppers, sugar, spices, fermented-this and mashed-that you can think of.One of the great things about Chada Thai (Street’s older, smaller sibling two miles west) has always been the pitch-perfect spicing of the various dipping sauces.

We at ELV expect this supreme sauciness to be sustained at the new location, because these folks are wizards at seasoning things right. In other words, you’re doing yourself a disservice if you ask them to tone things down too much.

Of course, if you have an aversion to spicy food you should let the kitchen know, but lezbee honest here: if you have an aversion to spicy food, you shouldn’t be eating in a Thai restaurant in the first place.

All of this at prices that will be remarkably gentle. Eighteen bucks for six, fresh oysters is 25% less than what you’ll pay on the Strip. (It comes to 3 bucks per, for the arithmetic-challenged among you.) Try finding bivalves of this quality for less than $4/piece a half-mile to the east. And $14 for a juicy, wine-friendly, fried pork hock (enough for four):

…or six bucks for a plate of luscious deep fried pork belly (Moo Tod Nam Pla), accompanied by a dish of Nam Prik Noom ( Chiang Rai Chile Relish – but you knew that):

…is a flat out steal.

Speaking of wine, wine is where Street will really shine. Going all the way back to his roots at Lotus of Siam, Bank has honed his skills in tasting, selling and matching the world’s great off-dry wines with the peppery food of his homeland. Expect his on-premises cellar to be an expansion of his list at the sister restaurant, with bargains galore.

Best of all, there will finally be a bar for sitting and sipping all these great Rieslings, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminers, and steely chards:

 
How happy is ELV that there will finally be a first-class, priced-right wine bar in town, featuring the great white wines of the world?
This happy:
  the hunger games animated GIF
 (Bank, Aime and Bon better get used to ELV coming)

CHADA STREET (opens this Saturday, August 15)

3839 Spring Mountain Road

Las Vegas, NV 89102

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* Try saying Bank and Bon Atcharawan and Aime Wanmaneesiri three times fast after a surfeit of Spatlëse. Better yet, try spelling them even when sober.

11 Responses to Coming at CHADA STREET

  • Arithmetic-challenged???
    18➗6=3 not 1.5

    Everything looks great though.

  • Ate @ Chada Thai & Wine when in your humble and introspective burg last year. Fuckin’ fantabulous! Now that I know of the “other” joint (being a regular guest of Vegas) we will become yet again a pale skinned patron of the “new-to-me” Chada in about a months time. THANX J.C.

  • We had the good fortune to try out Chada Street last night, as Chada Thai has become our home away from home. My daughter devoured two orders of the pork belly. Aimee and Bank are hitting it out of the park, and working hard. We are thrilled to have neighborhood restaurants of this quality. About time Las Vegas.

  • ….so….Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc is one of ONLY FOUR white wines by the glass…DUDE….LMFAO…WE fool white boy again…any wine you can buy by the case at Albertson’s should not be on the per glass list of a hip ME LOVE YOU LONG TIME establishment…gosh…where is Jet Tila when you need him…

  • DB Brasserie has happy hour oysters for a buck.

  • If Hector thinks being served Kim Crawford at a casual dining establishment is bad, the last time we dined at L’Altelier Robuchon I ordered the wine pairing. It started out with Veuve Cliquot (yellow label), next a Vouvray that we purchase regularly at Costco, and a few more very familiar easy to acquire brands that I can’t recall. Very disappointing and L’Altelier is certainly not at a restaurant featuring “street food”.

  • Karen….LMFAO…if you only knew the connections I have at L’atelier….if only…that said…my comments were about Chada Street and in reference to an article that stated Bank defines the wine cognoscenti in Vegas…not so much me think…so…Karen if you want to be included in the next time I rip my favorite L’atelier employee about wine please let me know…or when he rips me for that matter- about Shafer Hillside Select last Tuesday…LOL…

  • …one more thing Karen…was that the same Veuve Cliquot that Humphrey Bogart drank in the movie Casablanca…hmmmm….the answer would be yes….enjoy

  • Not that Hector necessarily needs to be corrected, but just so that all are informed, there are 13 options available by the glass at Chada Street, the Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc not among them. The entire list is extremely well thought out, and by Las Vegas standards extremely fair priced.

  • ELV responds: What David said.

  • ….so Quincy perhaps you are right…but explain me this minor detail….the cool high end of the Chada empire has only 4 wines by the glass and one is Crawford SB….at yet Chada Street has 13 options….what am I missing here…Thai street food must be as nuanced as Thai ….well…you know…I once saw Bank interviewed about SB and he mentioned some obscure SB’s from Napa that he loved- several actually…but not a one was on his wine list…WTF…tell the local rag about how cool Kim Crawford is…its the F ing wine you serve….do you think Robert Smith would ramble on about a wine that would not touch the lips of his customers…HUH…a little help please…

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