Match is a restaurant that defies description and that we should hate for that very reason. Amazingly, like Al “Mad Man” Mancini, we find ourselves liking it.
“How could this be?” you’re probably asking yourself right now.
“Has ELV gone soft?”
“Have over-indulgences of C2H5OH over the years scrambled his brain?”
No, none of the above. Eating Las Vegas likes Match because owners Gregory Arianoff and Randy Liu are taking the time (and have the passion) to turn out well-cooked and constructed small plates of food that more than do justice to the various cuisines they come from.
Normally, any restaurant that boasts a menu of Spanish tapas, Russian stuffed cabbages, Korean kim chee, and Belgian frites would have us heading for the exit faster than you can say “bad fusion food.” But the preparation of these dishes (overseen by Liu) is done with a certain precision that reveals itself in balanced and strong flavors in almost every dish we’ve tried.
The sole exception has been a “special” paella that was expensive — $25/per person — and but a tepid approximation of the real thing. Arianoff tells us it’s coming off the menu.
As it should, because having something that mediocre, surrounded by such winners as monkfish liver in ponzu, sliced Mongolian beef, boquerones al vinagre, and gambas a pil pil (shrimp in a garlic and olive oil), only detracts from what might be the ultimate all-over-the-map meal in town. This isn’t fusion food as much as it’s chefs trying to faithfully re-create a variety of dishes from a variety of countries. By and large, they succeed…a fact that still has ELV scratching his head.
Later today, ELV will be recording a Dishing and Dining segment with the Emmy Award-winning Denise Valdez at KLAS TV. It will air Thursday morning on Channel 8, but ELV and his staff thought you might like a preview of some of the tasty snaps we’ll be featuring. As for ELV’s usual bon mots and bon bons of wit and wisdom….well, you’ll just have to get up Thursday morning and tune in to hear them first hand.
1263 East Silverado Ranch Blvd.
Las Vegas, NV 89183