Match is a restaurant that defies description and that we should hate for that very reason. Amazingly, like Al “Mad Man” Mancini, we find ourselves liking it.
“How could this be?” you’re probably asking yourself right now.
“Has ELV gone soft?”
“Have over-indulgences of C2H5OH over the years scrambled his brain?”
No, none of the above. Eating Las Vegas likes Match because owners Gregory Arianoff and Randy Liu are taking the time (and have the passion) to turn out well-cooked and constructed small plates of food that more than do justice to the various cuisines they come from.
Normally, any restaurant that boasts a menu of Spanish tapas, Russian stuffed cabbages, Korean kim chee, and Belgian frites would have us heading for the exit faster than you can say “bad fusion food.” But the preparation of these dishes (overseen by Liu) is done with a certain precision that reveals itself in balanced and strong flavors in almost every dish we’ve tried.
The sole exception has been a “special” paella that was expensive — $25/per person — and but a tepid approximation of the real thing. Arianoff tells us it’s coming off the menu.
As it should, because having something that mediocre, surrounded by such winners as monkfish liver in ponzu, sliced Mongolian beef, boquerones al vinagre, and gambas a pil pil (shrimp in a garlic and olive oil), only detracts from what might be the ultimate all-over-the-map meal in town. This isn’t fusion food as much as it’s chefs trying to faithfully re-create a variety of dishes from a variety of countries. By and large, they succeed…a fact that still has ELV scratching his head.
Later today, ELV will be recording a Dishing and Dining segment with the Emmy Award-winning Denise Valdez at KLAS TV. It will air Thursday morning on Channel 8, but ELV and his staff thought you might like a preview of some of the tasty snaps we’ll be featuring. As for ELV’s usual bon mots and bon bons of wit and wisdom….well, you’ll just have to get up Thursday morning and tune in to hear them first hand.
1263 East Silverado Ranch Blvd.
Las Vegas, NV 89183
6 thoughts on “MATCH This!”
is it in the same center as “off the strip”?
miles to the east
Wow, finally a place ELV recommends that is within walking distance from my house. This location has seen it’s share of turnover in the past few years which had made me think the building is one stop away from the ‘Green Valley graveyard’ and as such, I’ve disregarded the businesses here. I’m glad to see that it’s worth a visit. Looking forward to stopping by here during happy hour as well. Although I should do it before Thursday so I can miss all the Channel 8 viewers who believe that ELV is the new Oprah.
Went to Match last night and the word you used in your review described each dish we had… tepid. Bland, lacking in flavor, blah, meh..pick one. Maybe we tried everything that you avoided and therefore we couldn’t give the same opinon as you did. The highlight and the only memorable dishes (out of about 10) were the Hawaiian doughnuts and the Frozen Coconut (coconut sorbet). Even the cocktails were ugh. I guess if it’s midnight and you are drunk and looking for food other than Jack in the Box, it will suffice. And you liked Match better than Bachi Burger? The texture of the burgers might not be what you prefer but at least you can taste a variety of flavors..and if you haven’t had their Black Cod sandwich yet..well you just might change your mind.
Wow, Donna, you must be a pro food critic! How can you compare Tapas to Burgers? Apple and Oranges!
Anyhow, I tried Match last Monday, the place wasn’t full but busy, we actually had dinner in one of the karaoke rooms. We had some great cocktails, caipiroska with fresh lime and kiwi and something with Licor 43. AS for food here are a few item we loved, Dragon balls (great), monkfish liver (awesome), kimchi fried rice (awesome). We stayed and sang for a good 5 hours, had a blast and kept ordering food and drinks.
Strange place. It was both exceptional and horrible.
Boquerones al vinagre from the jar, outstanding monkfish liver, pineapple fried rice too oily and the flavors just not making sense together, jamon serrano that…was not jamon serrano but the rest of the cold cuts were very good, didn’t care for malasadas – I was expectiong something like bomboloni but they were empty, too greasy and too doughy.
It looks like a clear example of a bipolar restaurant :)
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