Brasserie Puck might be the most attractive WP location in town. It certainly has the most stunning bar — with cocktails to match (see: Newscasters Gone Wild! below). The menu is typically all over the map — spaghetti with braised veal cheeks sits cheek by jowl with scallops Provencal — but in keeping with Team Wolfgang’s hyper-tuned quality control, there’s nary a clinker in the bunch.
Well, maybe the tart flambee isn’t up to our Alsatian standards, but it’s a pretty good version just the same, as is the more-than-adequate pan roasted and crispy chicken. And some things are just fabulous: the smoked salmon terrine, tuna “burger,” aforementioned pasta with veal cheeks, and steak frites are flawless — as are all of 2009 Pastry Chef of the Year Kenny Magana’s desserts.
We can still taste the intensity of his lemon tarte, and our staff is still swooning over the chocolate cake — whose layers are divided by a dense, intense chocolate pudding. Yummmm!
As attractive as the design is, we can’t understand why they walled off one entire side of the restaurant — the side facing the Crystals promenade on the second floor. After all, the people watching at Spago in the Forum Shops has always been nonpareil, and BP is situated to be just as much fun — except now you just look at a wall, instead of the human highway passing by. (sigh.)
We suggest digging in to Chef Dustin Lewandowski’s roasted bone marrow, or superior steak tartare, as the best way to forget this egregious design faux pas.
At Crystals at City Center (that is neither a city, nor in the center of anything)
3720 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Las Vegas, NV 89109