YAGYU, MARU and GARFIELD’S – An Eating Odyssey
I know, I know, we swore off beef eatin’ entirely a week ago. But then we cruised by Yagyu Yakiniku:
Enough is enough…we said to ourselves.
But then the next day, we found ourselves at Garfield’s, and wouldn’t you know it, Chef Jean-David Groff-Daudet puts out some beefy chuck top blade steak before us (plus some lamb in a pastry crust):
Of all that meat, we’d have to say the meltingly tender cuts at Yagyu were the most memorable, Maru’s bulgogi (plus some marinated pork bulgogi) the spiciest and most fun, and sadly, the Garfield’s steak and lamb, the most forgettable.
Which brings us to this spanking new venue in Desert Shores. We’ve been three times now, love the space, like the decor (with the exception of the massively uncomfortable chairs), are wild about the lakeside patio, and have had nothing but top drawer service from the staff. And as you know, we’re big fans of Chef Daudet, and have also found ourselves smitten with the reasonably-priced wine list.
Unfortunately, it’s the menu that gives us pause. It’s too big, too all over the map and so unfocused it might as well be in a convention hotel. Six soups, seven salads, six fish, five pastas, four steaks, burgers, pizzas, omelets, crepes, Alsatian tarte flambee, leg of lamb, miso-glazed fish, quiches, croquettes and a kid’s menu all make this the busiest read since we last looked at a Japanese magazine.
To call it unfocused is the understatement of the decade. We fear it’s also a recipe for disaster, since the kitchen is trying to do so many things, it can’t possibly succeed at all of them.
We don’t blame the chef, we blame the owner.
From our perch, this menu has the fingerprints of an owner (wanting a little of this and a little of that), all over it. And it’s bound to fail since the kitchen will never find its niche, and the waste and expense of trying to be all things to all diners will eventually take its toll.
Daudet is a fine chef, and he’s cooking in a beautiful venue, but if he doesn’t adjust his menu (cut it in half?), the quality compromises will sink this ship before it raises its spinnaker.
4355 Spring Mountain Road
Las Vegas, NV 89102(No phone and no website that we could find)
2025 Village Center Circle
Las Vegas, NV 89134
2620 Regatta Drive Suite 116
Las Vegas, NV 89128