Doin’ Lunch at DELMONICO
No one goes there anymore. It’s too crowded – Yogi Berra
Delmonico has been around so long (12+ years), we tend to forget how great it is.
One of its many excellent attributes is that it’s open for lunch, as in: a real, classy, white tablecloth lunch, in quiet, elegant setting, perfect for conversation, business or romance. Not an easy thing to find at the noon hour in our humble burg.
A lunch at which you can order one of their great dinner steaks, perhaps enjoyed after a light and stimulating amuse:
…perhaps followed by a lobster roll slider composed of chunky lobster meat on a buttery bun:
…followed (if you’re ELV) by succulent-yet-crispy fried chicken that takes a back seat to no version you’ve ever had:
…succeeded by one of the greatest cheeseburgers you’ll ever chomp on:
ELV's usual at Delmonico
…a ten ounce beaut composed of prime filet, prime rib-eye trim and fat from the short loin. “Tastes like a good steak,” is how the King of Burgers put it after his first bite, and we couldn’t have agreed more. Chef de Cuisine Ronnie Rainwater (great name that) tells us they form them a little neater, more uniformly than you might expect. “They almost look store-bought,” is how he puts it, the better to improve their appearance inside the firm-yet-slightly-squishy brioche bun. Rainwater brushes that bread with some mayo on both sides, then adds Tillamook cheddar cheese, Bibb lettuce, heirloom tomato and thinly shaved red onions — thus supplying every land-locked food group known to man in one tasty bite. All in all, a well-considered construct of burger perfection.
Anyone looking for something light for dessert in an Emeril Lagasse restaurant ought to have their head examined. The Bam Man may be from Rhode Island, but his sugary soul was captured by New Orleans/Southern cooking long ago, and you’d have to have the willpower of a Buddhist ascetic to resist this duo of Pastry Chef Stephanie Nikolic’s fabuloso desserts:
…consisting of a pecan pie to end all debates and profiteroles that aren’t far behind. That pie comes on at oatmeal/shortbread crust and is, according to Nikolic: “…baked in a buttery, cast iron mold we think gives it the crust and comfort of a homemade pie.”
We couldn’t have said it better ourselves.
ELV’s meal was unexpectedly comped, but he left a $40 tip.
In the Venetian Resort and Casino
3355 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109