John Curtas is …

HOLSTEIN’S Buns Have Got It Goin’ On

Just like Stacy’s mom, Holstein’s, the gastro-pub disguised as a big, boffo burger joint in The Cosmo, has got it goin’ on.

House-made charcuterie is only the tip of the iceberg. Six kinds of sausage are made in-house — ranging from Greek touri to French toulouse — and the mini-Chicago dogs are a way to satisfy your Chi-town fix without ingesting a carbo bomb — as long as you split one order three ways.

The dry-aged, “Gold Standard” burger is made with 21 day old dry aged beef from Imperial Meats in L.A. — to which choice chuck and scraps from other prime sirloin and rib eyes are added — bringing forth a clean, bright, rich burger beauty. Some might argue it’s too loaded (with smoked bacon, garlic-chive aioli and aged goat cheddar cheese) to take its place in the pantheon of Vegas’ perfect burgers, but there’s no doubting the quality of the grind and the juiciness of the result.

We also were taken with the pork belly buns — almost as good as Momofuku’s and miles better than what is peddled by certain popular purveyors off the Strip. And the radicchio salad — a big tangle of fresh purple red greens(?) showered with sheets of decent Parm, crawling with croutons, and awash in a strong, sherry-balsamic vinaigrette — might be the best salad ever conceived in a burger joint…anywhere. Even Laurent Tourondel – no slouch when it comes to building a better burger bar — was impressed.

And the desserts were no slouches either. The “Fat Elvis” comes complete with a microwaved brownie and peanut butter pudding, and the fromage blanc cheesecake-in-a-bowl is a gimmick that works….because it tastes so damn good.

Was Executive Chef Anthony Meidenbauer strutting his stuff for us? Of course, but that burger blend is there for everyone, the duck fat fries are a different, richer, and no less addictive take on the potato than Comme Ça’s, and the mini-shakes make a ton of sense for those wanting to indulge, albeit in a more restrained, mini-milk way.

As befitting a joint that hopes to do a thousand covers a day, the menu is broad and long and probably over-extends itself in trying to please everyone. You can get everything from a “New Dehli” chicken sandwich to a kalbi quesadilla here, but for our dinero (and rupees), we suggest restricting yourself to the ground and fermented wonders of this meat-market-par-excellence. But word to the wise: skip the vegetarian “Urth” burger. It tastes exactly like you would expect something to taste which is trying to be (and be spelled) like something it is not.

Other than that minor misstep, ELV must confess he knows it might be wrong, but he’s in love with Holstein’s buns.

LT picked up the check for one meal, and the other was comped.

HOLSTEIN’S

In The Cosmopolitan Hotel and Casino

3708 Las Vegas Blvd. South

Las Vegas, NV 89109

702.698.7940

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6 Responses to HOLSTEIN’S Buns Have Got It Goin’ On

  • Interesting… one of the buns I was served there was distinctly stale.
    I honestly didn’t think the standard burger nor the duck fat fries held a candle to Comme Ça’s.
    However, their Greek lamb burger (looks like you missed) I did think was quite juicy and delicious. And the boozy Tom & Jerry shake was a treat.

    Hope you didn’t miss the hot hostesses, either.

    Try the pork belly upstairs at Blue Ribbon ($5 app), some of the best I’ve had.

    Eric’s meal was comped, and he’ll still bite the hand ;-))

  • its funny what people think when they dont open their eyes. I saw really hott cocktail waitress and exelcent service fromt he bar. The hostess were really nice. The whole feeling while being in the room is awesome from the graphti on the walls to the butcher blocks as tables and the meat hooks on the celing makes you feel that you really need to eat a burger and witness the preperation of the product while you indugle in sinful perfection. I have to say i have eating at alot of burger bars around the city and this is the best one that i have seen. Duck Duck Goose burger is perfection in more then one way. You ahve to try it to see what i am talking about. I am suprised that the article didnt mintion the artichoke guac. This is awesome just go and try one. If you are lucky the cocktail waitress will take a picture with you. :)

  • Jeez, yet another Cosmo resto for me to get excited about! And gosh darn it, I was hoping I could lose these extra holiday pounds when I get home. ;-)

    It’s been too long since my last visit to LBS, and it sounds like Holstein’s may be even better than the original.

  • What’s with the cheesecake? It looks like foam, scrambled eggs and leftover Christmas ribbon. I’ll take your word that it tastes good.

    The burger however looks divine!

  • Marymary, Fucking “Divine”. Who in their right meat eating mind describes a burger as divine. Divine my ass, just eat the damn thing. I would like to know what other generic solid objects you consider Divine. Do you look at a Pigs ass and say “how divine that ass, I cant wait to eat that ham”.

  • A good ham is never divine. A good ham is always “lovely”.

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