John Curtas is …

THE FAT GREEK

You’re going to be hearing a lot in the near future about how The Fat Greek is, by far, the best Greek restaurant in the Vegas Valley, but we at ELV thought you deserved a sneak peek (ahead of our review in the Las Vegas Weekly) at some of the extraordinary food this place is now putting out.

The “Fat Greek” is Chef/owner Yanni Gourmroian, a friendly, rotund fellow who, along with wife Alice, has operated this modest place for five years in a remote corner of a shopping center at Flamingo and Decatur. Two years ago, they brought in chef Nikolas Georgousis from Athens (Greece, not Georgia), and recently son Jerry (a veteran of RM Seafood, Guy Savoy and Bartolotta) has been on premises. Between the three of them, they’ve helped to take this place to a new level of lip-smacking, Mediterranean sophistication — at prices that won’t dent your wallet.

Gourmroian’s pastries have always been superb, so you can expect baklava, shamali, galaktoboureko, and bugatcha to make you swoon, but a recent lunch there highlighted for us the savory delights within this modest storefront.

A platter of whipped tirokefteri (a peppery feta cheese whip) and a taramasalata (whipped fish roe dip) were the best we’ve had…anywhere. Equally good was the tangy tzatziki sauce that came with the very good chicken gyro, and the kefte kebab — a nicely-seasoned roll of ground beef that took ELV straight back to Louis Pappas’ in Tarpon Springs, Florida.

At dinner, things get even better:

We don’t know if there’s a better deal in town than the combination plate for two ($30) or the family-style grill plate for four ($50) – each platter groaning with Grecian delicacies like meaty moussaka, roasted meats and vegetables seasoned like they are in the old country, and pasticcio (pa-STEECH-choo) that would make ELV’s popou (grandfather) proud.

Both the moussaka and pasticcio come topped with a rich, firm and savory bechamel, and both represent the apotheosis (a Greek word that) of Greek casserole cookery.

The avgolemeno soup here is a first rate version, also, made with a rich chicken stock and just lemony enough. Best of all, they have a solid and well-priced Greek wine list that even has a retsina on it. ELV may be the only person of Greek extraction under the age of eighty that actually likes this pine resiny wine, but its salty essence always reminds us of a Mediterranean breeze.

And a few sips are just the thing to compliment a plate of flaming saganaki cheese*.

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* Made with halloumi cheese — a sheep’s and goat’s milk cheese that originated in Cyprus.

THE FAT GREEK

Renaissance Center West

4001 South Decatur Blvd. #34

Las Vegas, NV 89103

702.222.0666

wwwfatgreeklv.com

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9 Responses to THE FAT GREEK

  • My fiance and I are huge fans of Greek food, we’ll have to check it out. It looks and sounds wonderful!

  • Dammit, another one on the West Side! I guess I’ll have to head out yonder to try this place when I’m back home. I’m sure I’ll be craving some good Greek food by then, and I’ll have to do a taste test to see how this matches up to the two Greek places by The Galleria.

  • The Fat Greek is one of best eats in Las Vegas

  • Why must Greek places almost always stray from truly Greek items? Babaganoush, Imam Bialdi, Falafal Plate, Tabbouli Salad, and on & on. Not Greek food! You don’t see Sweet & sour pork at Lotus of Siam

  • I am with you Manos, the food looks great but Greek is Greek and it’s menus like this that cause the Xeni to not really know what Greek food is. There are so many wondeful Greek foods to choose from that straying is not necessary….

  • As far as I can tell. Opa is the only place in Vegas that comes close.

  • like to start of by saying the i am Greek and i know what Greek food is…trust me. Ive ate through the greek towns of chicago, new york, and detriot and have eaten at every greek restaurant in las vegas…as far as the flavor, freshness, price, hospitality, and service…your not going to find a Greek restaurant in las vegas or for that matter in America that comes close (for being a mom and pop operation)…although i agree the menu has its share of middle eastern influence… the most all greek specialties like the traditional moussaka and passticio are the best ive had…anywhere!…and the prices match.

  • OPA!?…I am not greek…but last time I was there they were serving overpriced, bland, mediocre food at best. (check out johns pictures)…doesnt even come close to The Fat Greek as far as im concerned.

  • I haven’t tried Opa yet. Was basing my comment strictly on online menu comparrison.
    But I finally made it to Fat Greek for lunch the other day. Good, friendly service and traditional Greek decor. Appetizer Octopus was tender and tasty but the Gyros didn’t cut it. Any Gyro worth it’s salt needs to be made in house! Not only does Fat Greek use a premade, processed product, they advertise it with a bright sign over the kitchen (which is in all the photos). Gyros, donairs, & Shawarmas cannot all be made with the same interchangeable prefab meat product.

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