“My problem with ‘wichcraft,” says the Burger Maven of Las Vegas, “is that it’s okay, but it isn’t that great…even though he (owner/Top Chef star/judge/über-chef Tom Colicchio) loves to tear Top Chef cheftestants a new asshole over the sandwiches they make.”
Sheepishly, we have to admit to him that we’ve never been, even though Colicchio’s casual counter has been here for years. So, we defer to the BMOLV for a bit, as we take the long, annoying hike through the always-aggravating MGM to grab a “sammie” as Rachel (“I’m not a chef”) Ray would say.
Total walking time from valet to front of sandwich shop: 10 minutes.
So we order. One chicken salad and one roasted pork panini with coppa, pepper relish and fontina cheese. Plus two sodas.
And a cookie.
Total wait time for food: 10 minutes.
Level of satisfaction: High for the chicken salad on beautifully fresh multi-grain bread, dressed with pickled red onions and roasted tomatoes — in all well-seasoned and cooked, with the ingredients in perfect proportion to their palate profile.
Level of satisfaction: Extremely low for the panini — skimpy pork, crudely place coppa, and barely there relish and cheese — no better or worse than at any number of chain sandwich shops.
Overall opinion of whether Colicchio’s judicial, sliced bread imperiousness is justified: Our burger-loving, sandwich-judgin’ friend was right. He needs to go back to sandwich school before he submarines any creations on his TV show.
Total elapsed time from finish of sandwiches, walk through the MGM, handing ticket to valet, and getting automobile for departure: 22 minutes.
Total bill: $40.
Yeah, forty bucks for sandwiches, sodas and a cookie. And the cookie was stale. Seriously stale. As in: dry and crumbly and obviously 2-3 days old.
Total overall opinion whether anyone who isn’t standing directly in front of ‘wichcraft should ever walk even a minute out of their way to grab a bite there: You make the call!
In the MGM Hotel and Casino
3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Las Vegas, NV 89109