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Praising an Emeril Lagasse restaurant is as out of character for ELV as singing along with Celine.

But by crackey if there ain’t a new sheriff/chef at Table 10 who is hoping to crack the whip, whip this place into shape, and turn it into a locavore legend.

His name is Sean Roe, and he’s hardly new to Las Vegas — ELV recalls doing a profile on him for Las Vegas Life over fourteen years ago — but he’s taken the reins at this under-performer and infused its menu with a freshness and passion that has heretofore been lacking from this lackluster kitchen.

You heard us right. Table 10 is now featuring farm products from throughout Southern Nevada and California, the provenance of which are proudly displayed on the regular and specials menu every day. Roe also tells us he’s hoping to soon be bringing his beef in from a cattle ranch in Northern Nevada, after its been slaughtered in a Reno abattoir. (There are no such facilities down here.)

A few apps do not a review make, but from his local radishes to candied bacon (served with some serious maple syrup) to unctuous bits of beef marrow, it’s clear to us this kitchen is making a serious  attempt to be taken seriously, and not just rest on Lagasse’s laurels.

Nevada beef? Pahrump hydroponics? Fresh goat cheese from California? ELV is in faster than you can say Where Does My Heart Beat Now!

ELV is betting this new sheriff will be kicking some ass, serving some tasty names, and making some truly arresting cuisine. Stay tuned.

TABLE 10

In The Palazzo Hotel and Casino

3327 Las Vegas Blvd. South

Las Vegas, NV 89109

702.607.6363

http://www.emerils.com/restaurant/11/Table-10/