SOYO BARSTAURANT – Second Bites
We wouldn’t be spending so much time at Soyo Barstaurant if we didn’t think it was cooking Korean food at a whole new level.
A game changer if you will. Maybe not at the Raku-degree of awesomeness, but certainly at a slap-my-ass-and-call-me-Sally-level of captivating Korean comestibles.
For instance: the mandu (dumplings) — fresh and pan-fried, filled with pork and glass noodles — are delicate in a way most thick, doughy mandu don’t approach.
Or the spicy chicken with mozzarella — a compelling assemblage of dark and white chicken chunks, coated slightly with an incendiary chile sauce, and draped with a nice white blanket of cheese. “The cheese gives it that gooey, gummy texture Koreans seem to love,” The Food Gal® opined, and she was right.
Or the rice cakes (finger thick noodles really) stewed with cabbage in a fire engine red sauce of chilies made to provide deep, soothing warmth through those cold Korean nights, rather than give an electric shock to the body like Thai or Indian chilies.
We even liked (if not loved) the stir-fried beef intestines with Korean blood sausage and vegetables — it being the veritable essence of an acquired taste — what with those fuzzy, chewy intestines rubbing their little villi around your tongue (yummmm!) and passed on brewskis or dessert — finding the four things we ordered to be enough for six.
If we had to equate Soyo with another place in town, Ichiza would be its closest cousin. Both are youthful, drinking establishments with lots of wacky Asian food, and a keen, edible, izakaya vibe. Those looking for a traditional Korean barbecue joint with standard issue kalbi et al, will be disappointed. Those looking for something to spice up their affair with Korean food, will think they died and went to heaven.
ELV musical note: Unlike our first dinnertime experience, our lunch was a slightly less noisome affair — this time substituting whatever passes for Korean ooh-baby-baby music for the infernal disco beats of last week. Our unusually perceptive staffperson noticed the booths offered a small amount of respite from the din…and for this we were grateful.
Our meal for two (that could’ve easily fed four, pictured above), came to $44+$9 tip.
SOYO BARSTAURANT
7775 South Rainbow Blvd. Suite 105
Las Vegas, NV 89139
702.897.7696
Restaurant reviews, quips, picks and pans-with some seriously salivating history-from the man who eats his way through Sin City every day.
February 21st, 2011 at 9:25 pm
I’d call it better than Ichiza, and certainly not up to Raku, but on the whole, I’d say an accurate assessment.
February 28th, 2011 at 11:23 am
Went there last night based on your review. Everything is spot on. Really good Korean food. Crispy whole chicken is juicy and crispy with salt/pepper and another sauce for dipping. A can’t missed dish is their seafood casserole, large enough to feed 2 without any other orders.
February 28th, 2011 at 3:00 pm
Had the whole grilled mackerel for lunch last week. Absolutely delicious and for $13, definitely a steal. I will be frequenting this place, thanks for the review.