Three items eaten last night: cappicola flatbread, Alsatian flatbread, and fried calamari. We weren’t fans of the cappicola — containing as it does sliced Italian meats (good), Italian slaw (okay), cherry pepper aioli (nice), and crispy shrimp (too much). One ingredient less (the shrimp) would improve things immensely.
The Alsatian — more of a riff on the classic Alsatian tarte flambee — containing good bacon chunks sprinkled atop crispy flatbread dotted with rosemary goat cheese crema (rather than fromage blanc), pine nuts(?), shaved onion and balsamic drizzle. Like the cappicola, it might benefit from a little subtraction, but otherwise was damn tasty.
Fried calamari — small, barely coated and lightly fried, these are a joy unto themselves, but the advertised hot cherry peppers and crispy prosciutto were barely there.
The chef’s overloading of ingredients bespeaks his prior association with that master mangler of too much — Todd English – but the kitchen is trying hard here, and deserves some leeway as it finds its sea legs.
To be continued…