ELV hates jazz. Loathes it. With every fiber in his body.
Even worse are jazz fans. So convinced of their coolness are they…maybe because they’ve trained themselves to listen to music designed to give you a headache without getting one.
Jazz is music for musicians. And it sucks.
Joe Queenan said it best for Spy Magazine back in the early ’90’s:
Admit it and you’ll feel a lot better. You’ve never had the slightest interest in an art form dominated by guys named Toots and Dizzy and Philly Joe Something-or-Other. From the first time you heard Art Tatum playing “Tea for Two,” you’ve always felt that jazz is a dipshit idiom that chomps the big one.
But ELV loves everything New Orleans: the food, the people, the culture, yes, and even the music. When we’re in The Big Easy we can’t get enough of whatever sounds are playing and whatever food they’re serving.
Somehow the music and food just seem to go together there.
Just like they do every Sunday at The Country Club Steakhouse or whatever they’re calling it these days. Finally….finally the F&B honchos are letting uber-chef Carlos Guia do a menu of the things he does best, which is: to duplicate the food of his native N’Awlins.
And duplicate he does, with eggs Versailles on a tender brioche, shrimp and grits straight from a southern kitchen, and a hollandaise to dream about. That hollandaise is given some green chile kick before it naps poached eggs atop barbecue pork atop a bacon-cheese muffin — the whole becoming ethereally greater than the sum of its parts.
Guia was top toque at Commander’s Palace for its entire run, and would that he would only be allowed to duplicate that menu here. Because let’s face it: how boring is another steakhouse in this town?
Pretty boring we’d say, no matter how well it’s executed. So for the time being, those seeking a Creole food fix need to check out this all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch. Sixty bucks a pop is a lot o’ lettuce, but when you factor in the house-made sausages, house smoked and cured salmon, superb ingredients, gorgeous setting and all those wonderfully rich egg dishes (including an over-the-top French toast bread pudding), it’s probably not too much to pay for what is sure to be your only meal of the day.
Heck, the food’s so good, you might even enjoy the jazz.
THE COUNTRY CLUB
At Wynn Hotel and Casino
3131 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Las Vegas, NV 89109