We just read somewhere that the owners of the Tao “concept” restaurant are planning on opening their LAVO “concept” in New York to take advantage of the smashing success this “concept” has been in Vegas.
We at ELV don’t know what’s more depressing: the fact that mediocre southern Italian/American food is still considered a “concept”, or the idea that megalithic, over-designed, impersonal “concept” restaurants are still considered a viable business model.
We do know this however: the food at LAVO ain’t nuthin’ ya cain’t git at hundreds of other places — albeit at higher prices here — and the public’s appetite for the over-designed, overpriced restaurant-cum-nightclub seems insatiable. Especially in Vegas.
Whether this holds true in the Big Apple is another story. Spaghetti and meatballs were practically invented there after all, and hayseeds don’t flock quite so quickly to mediocrity in mid-town Manhattan as they do in our humble burg.
But perhaps we are wrong. Perhaps faux Bolognese pasta, giant polenta fries and preternaturally glossy chicken Marsala are just what Manhattanites are clamoring for. And perhaps we’re denying the charms of faux Mediterranean bathhouse decor, 200 seat dining rooms, $20 Kobe meatballs (a waste of good steak) and garlic bread served in aluminum foil.
Our first and (we hope) last meal at the “new” LAVO didn’t cost us a thing…thanks to uber-food writer Grace Bascos.
In The Palazzo Hotel and Casino
3325 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Las Vegas, NV 89109-1414