Rosemary’s has been so good for so long (eleven years and counting) that we take it for granted sometimes. But a meal there last week had us licking our chops and swooning over the Belgian beer and food matches trotted out by Manager (and uber-beer-guy) Mike Shetler.
No one is ever going to accuse Chef/Owner Michael Jordan’s cuisine of being minimalist or feather-light (he was an early acolyte of Emeril Lagasse after all), but his recipes and seasonings always seem pitch perfect — especially when our weather turns cooler.
And what he’s done for years is keep a loyal group of customers happy with menu staples like a smoky, thick, turkey gumbo, deep-fried crab boulettes, barbecue shrimp with Maytag blue cheese, fried (natch) sweetbreads (one of the best and only versions in town these days), and a chile-rubbed steak that’s a kick in more ways than one.
All of these go spendidly with Shetler’s beer selections. Give him the slightest opening and he’ll regale you with tales of hoppy top notes and malty bass lines that make artisanal brews like a Bornem double ale pair so well with some of Jordan’s rich sauces, or a spicy “Saison” beer he helped craft at Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. in Chico, California.
Upon request (by those over 21) Shetler personally will pour you an (off the menu) Lindemann’s Raspberry Lambic Float — an ice cream and ale concoction that kicks root beer’s ass.
It may be wintertime in the High Mojave (in fact it’s snowing outside ELV’s window as he writes this and his staff couldn’t be happier), but when it’s cold outside, somehow a Belgian tripel Karmiliet at Rosemary’s seems like just the right libation
Our dinner for four — which included a number of beers and ales — came to $233 plus a $50 tip. On Sunday nights, the entire wine list (with a few execeptions) is one-half off — a steal in anyone’s book.
8125 West Sahara Ave.
Las Vegas, NV 89117