In view of recent posted comments mentioning a “feud” between me and Andre (Would You Like To Buy My Restaurant?) Rochat, ELV thought a KNPR commentary he did some years ago might be illuminating.
And for the record, we tasted every chef’s dish(es) at the Star Chefs Revue, and all were excellent. Some were simply a bit more excellent and finely tuned than others.
Curtas- I am thrilled to be the first to comment on your (surprisingly) open account to how long it has been since you last dined in any of Andre’s 3 flourishing restaurants. Since April 2002 (the last time you where physically in any of Rochats restaurants), Las Vegas has evolved as a food community-more than most. Andre Rochat is no exception. More has changed (here in Vegas) in the past 6 years than in most cities within the world.
The man who “eats his way through Sin City every day” has avoided the atmosphere and cuisine of a Chef who most of Sin City not only respect- but thankful he paved the way for more than 30 years to provide us a culinary tradition worth cooking for.
Sincerely, I do thank you for using your penmanship (offered to you by the wide open world of the internet where anything goes) to constructively share the experience you had at alize. It is not important to me what happened to keep the man who “eats his way through Sin City every day” completely unaware and inexperienced to Andre’s (and his staffs) evolution in this fast-passed city… only to justify my concern that someone with not only OPINIONS- but opinions on a place where you have not stepped foot in (all three establishments) in over 6 years- may be a bit OUTDATED.
It should be no surprise to you that Andre keeps his well earned stars… only a surprise that after all these years, you have not shared in what most consider an ultimate dining experience from Las Vegas’ pioneer and still going strong working chefs- Andre Rochat.
Next time please- I cook from my heart and soul, and like to meet the ones who inspire me to cook the way I do. Dont let several years of, whatever it is that leads to this- keep you from actually trying the cuisine that comes from our stoves and continue to judge todays cuisine on 2002 experiences. This city moves way to fast for that.
Greg Engelhardt
Your opinions seem a little biased to me. You openly admit to not dining at Chef Andre Rochat’s restaurants since 2002, yet seem to think that you have grounds to stand on in making an opinion of his restaurants now? It sounds to me like your opinions and articles are buyable, and you write to further whatever agenda you have. (not really a good description for a food critic, but a fitting one for Mr. Curtas)
The Michelin Guide is highly praised for their ability to dine at a restaurant incognito. That means you never know who they are, and when their findings are published it is respected as an acurate depiction of what the restaurant offers the everyday diner. The restaurant scene in Las Vegas knows John Curtas, and they know his game, sounds to me like Andre refuses to play it.
i read a yelp review this week indicating that Andre’s in downtown is closing later this year – is this true ?
I have eaten at Andre’s in downtown twice in the last two years. I enjoyed both visits but i wasn’t WOW’d. I refuse to patronize any business in the Palms ( no reflection on Alize . ) I still need to try Andre’s in the Monte Carlo.
As much as i feel every restaurant in the Vegas valley that is worthy of a Michelin star(s) should be visited annually by a restaurant “critic”, the fact remains the Vegas valley food scene has expanded in leaps and bounds over the last few years – how many dinners can one man eat in one year ?!?!
Thank you all for the posts…..when Rochat lets me back in his restaurants, I’ll be there with bells on. and BTW: Chef Englehardt is one kick-ass chef who Andre is lucky to have.
Site Administrator here:
I think we owe our readers an explanation so they can make their own judgments.
“Ciccio” wrote that comment from the same IP address as “Andre’s Chef Downtown” / Greg Englehardt on other discussions. They obviously share an internet connection.
So accept the opinion in the above comments however you want. And above all, keep the conversations civil. Let’s not resort to name calling and hearsay.
Thanks,
The Management
I do work on the same computer network as Andre’s Chef de Cuisine, Greg Engelhardt. I am not here to sing the praises of any restaurant, but to explain to your readers that the opinions expressed by Mr. Curtas are over 6 years old, and motivated by more than just food and service.
Fair enough Ciccio, I’m just the site admin. I saw several comments from the same IP and just thought I would let everyone know.
Who would have thought an article from 9 years ago would keep this little tempest spinning? :)
Oh, and my comment about keeping things civil was not directed at you — more in reference to other comments (some deleted, some left up) in other discussions.
Ciccio, shame on you. Your comments are unfounded and ridiculous. I know Mr. Curtas, though not well, and as a fellow amateur food critic, I take offense to your statement that his “opinions and articles are buyable.” The fact that you repeated this insinuation after your own impartiality was called into question is beyond me. I know many people don’t agree with him, I don’t on many occasions, but I know his opinions, good bad or indifferent, are not bought. He stays true to his own taste, and if you read his blog or listen to him on KNPR with any regularity you will understand at least that much about John.
Before I go home tonight- exhausted as usual after a 15-hour day, I just want to share my sentiments regarding the open line of passionate/defensive/objective communication I feel I have blubbered into here. I value this type of forum, although never getting quite this riled up.
The Michelin star is a daily mantra of passion and dedication I meditate on to find consistency and energy. I acted out on what I thought was an insult to the judgment of the guide (in which I have praised since my very first exposure – according to the long history of French excellence is based)…and what I thought was quick judgment from a fellow professional that I had reason to believe had not enough experience with the cuisine of Rochat/Engelhardt current…
I realize I acted on emotion and wore it directly on my sleeve. I would like to praise the opportunity to share my thoughts openly and without attack- hoping to not reflect my love for the craft and/or tradition of Vegas and beyond negatively. I feel better now, after speaking my voice- and again praise such arena to do so. Over and out. good night
Greg Engelhardt
Mr. Curtas,
I have lived in Las Vegas long enough to have had the priviledge to eat at most restaurants who have opened (or closed) their doors in town the past 38 years.
One philosophy I have lived by in my eating expeditions is that a single experience, good or bad, in a restaurant does not substantiate the basis for a definite opinion. What it does is called for one or more visit and then, and only then, can an educated opinion be formed.
But opinions differs and a supportive and winning arguments about an opinion must be built on experience in the art that one wishes to critize.
Mr. Curtas, If I respectfully may ask: What is your experience, education, training and backgroung in the culinary arts? To what schooling do you owe your restaurant review expertise? What legitimate diplomas and awards, based on professional culinary and oenology studies, haved you received?
What professional seminars and courses can you provide proof of having attended?
You may be a good lawyer but nothing other that nouveau-riche status provides you the blanket of deceiveness you hide under and from where you spread physiological gustatory falsehoods among the uninitiated.
Once, I called your short-lived radio show on KNUU and you couldn’t answer my questions asking you if a Bearnaise Sauce was a reduction or an emulsion. Preobably one of the reasons why, thankfully, your show was short-lived!
Long ago, I graduated from one of the finest culinary schools in France and for over 150 years my family has owned a vineyard in the Champagne region of France. Other than establishing solid credentials for the basis of my letter, these are are not even important compare to those of a Chef whose skills, talent, dedication and uncompromising standards I have learned to admire and respect. His name: Chef Andre Rochat. A Michelin Star Chef. A Chef you chosen to insult
Mr. Curtas, you may fool a lot of people in believing you are a food expert but, in my opinion and those of thousands upon thousands who have experienced Chef Rochat’s cuisine, you are but an unwelcome pimple on his derriere, one, you would be well served to kiss.
Chris M. Athmann.
Las Vegas, NV
So Chris, is the point of your essay that only people who went to culinary school are qualified to critique food? Just like only artists should comment on art or musicians on songs ? I do not need to know how to prepare Duck Confit to know when it is too salty or dry.
I always thought anyone who eats and enjoys food can criticize and compliment it, just as anyone who can see or hear should be able to comment on art and music.
I come here because I enjoy reading Mr. Curtas’ reviews and updates on the food scene. He can come across a bit nit-picky at times, but overall I find I get a good idea of what to expect — where of course I make up my own mind. More often than not I agree, but when I disagree, it does not make me dismiss his opinions on the whole. But I digress, the real point here is that he provides a great service by even going to these wonderful restaurants and sharing his experience. Those of us who only dine out once a week (if we’re lucky) rely on those willing to put in the time and effort like Mr. Curtas.
But I’ve read all this and it seems like no more than an old squabble between a critic and owner. It neither dimishes the critic’s credibility nor the restaurants quality, though to read all the comments one would want to conclude that either Mr. Curtas is a hack or the restaurant in question is awful, neither of which are true.
Finally, let me say “bravo” to Mr. Engelhardt. While it looked like you got caught up in the emotion of all this, your last post shows you are above the squabbles, digs, and sins of the past. Worry not about ELV or your owner’s past actions — just keep doing what you love (which I assume is cooking) and the people will still come and enjoy your food.
With that I say, adieu.
Chris — if only you applied the same rigid standards to writing as you do to food criticism, we’d have been spared your illogical and poorly formed rant.
“One philosophy I have lived by in my eating expeditions is that a single experience, good or bad, in a restaurant does not substantiate the basis for a definite opinion.”
A visit to Alize left my wallet a few hundred bucks lighter, my palate underwhelmed, and my sensibilities offended by obsequious waiters. My definite opinion: there are far too many other places in this town I’d rather patronize before I’d go back to any Rochat joint.
Professah.
Objectivitiy calls for you to pay a second visit to Alize.
I did and both of my visits justified the expense (I agree with your comments about the obsequiousness of the waiter; a perfect example where less would mean more).
By the way, I am not a cheerleader for Andre Rochat or anyone who owns or operates a restaurant. I simply root for the advancement of the “Physiologie du Gout” as stated by Ali Bab in his “Gastronomie Pratique” etude. Even as I laboriously read it in French, it is the essential study on why we eat (other than the obvious caloric needs) and why we do eat what what we eat.
It would serve many well to look it up.
Gourmand101:
Things I learned during my four years at a Hotel Management and Culinary School in France:
A Gourmet:
One who discriminatedly knows, understands and selects food before he eats.
A Gourmand:
One who undiscriminately satisfies his need to eat (see: Gourmandise).
I do, however, agree with your “Bravo” to Chef Greg Engelhardt.
Just last week-end, 5 of my guests and I were delighted by the creativity, taste and presentation of his cuisine; additionally, the service and wine pairing making for a wonderful evening at Andre’s.
As you can see, I respect Chefs but, not much those who critic Chefs but have never, worked “au piano”. One would have to be a Chef to understand this. A Gourmet might also understand what “au piano” means. A Gourmand…probably not!
ELV had a KNPR piece where he defines epicure, gourmet, gastronome, gourmand, and glutton. Actually it was a review for DJT, but that made for a good intro:
http://www.eatinglv.com/2008/06/more-love-for-djt/
The IT staff here tries to remain at gastronome level. Can’t afford to be an epicure, don’t want to stray to glutton :)
This is ELV. First of all, thanks to all of you for your lively discussion. There’s nothing like a good debate to get me hungry for more (debate and food!).
With all respect to Mr. Athmann, I take deep umbrage at his suggestion that I didn’t know whether a bearnaise was a reduction or an emulsion*….as I’ve been making them since before he was born — and I don’t care how old he is.
He’s probably confusing me with the other host (also named John), who probably didn’t and doesn’t know to this day.
* A bearnaise sauce incorporates both techniques — and if Mr. Athmann wants to come to my house for a cooking lesson (similar to the one Jacques Pepin gave me in 1981) I’ll gladly demonstrate.
Dear Mr. Curtas,
The Bearnaise Sauce Challenge!
I accept your challenge to see whom, between you and I, makes the most authentic and best Bearnaise Sauce.
However, not at your house but, at a restaurant kitchen site (Table 34, Rosemary’s or Andre’s downtown) and, regardless of the location, with neutral and objective judges such as Michael and Wendy Jordan from Rosemary’s, Chef Wes Kendrick at Table 34 and Chef Greg Engelhardt from Andre.
Each one of us could pick one Las Vegas Chef judge of our choice. The third name picked randomly from a list of 10 French Chefs currently, and demonstratively, practicing their craft in an operating restaurant in Las Vegas.
I suggest four criterias for the Chefs to judge our individual Bearnaise Sauces on:
1) Technique (ease in preparation, precise execution and professional skills)
2) Closeness to the authentic recipe based on the Judges/Chefs’ own standards, experience and established culinary practices.
3) Appeal and Aroma
4)Taste.
Scoring: 1 to 10 for each criteria
Time frame: no more than 45 minutes
Ingredients: Those needed by each contestant based on own recipe
Tools: Those needed for each contestant based on own recipe
Prize: The loser takes the winner and the Judges to dinner at Andre’s or Alize’s and picks up the tab for all.
Fairness: ELV reports the results of the Bearnaise Sauce Challenge, and about the ensuing dinner, in a featured column, posted and remaining available for future viewing through commonly accessible archived files, in all of his local media vehicles (TV, radio, print, website, internet, etc.).
Time frame: First week of December.
This ought to be fun.
By the way, Mr. Curtas, I am old enough to remember having made my first Bearnaise Sauce in France, in 1964.
Please contact me at my email address and I will contact you back personally. We can then jointly make the arrangements.
Respectfully.
Chris M. Athmann-M
Does a judge really have to be a French chef to understand a bearnaise? I have made it, served it, and eaten it, and my dad teaches it to hundreds each year. I, a restaurant manager and amateur food critic, have no desire to be in the challenge, but, if it is had, would be ready and willing to judge if Mr. Athmann would have me.
I’m going to attempt to shed some different perspectives on the simmering issues that have been passed around this table over the course of the past two weeks regarding #1), the so-called “feud” between Mr. John Curtas and Chef Andre Rochat, and the debate that followed-#2), the qualifications of John Curtas aka ELV, to be a restaurant critic and food writer, (and whether or not it’s even relevant that he can master a Bernaise sauce).
The competitive nature between the elite restaurants of Las Vegas dictates that they have to absolutely be at the top of their game every single night, every minute of every single service.
When Rochat and the staff fell down the night John was there, years ago, they failed to deliver to the customer and were duly called on for their mistakes. The mantra “a complaint is a gift” is an appropriate sign that should hang in every restaurant kitchen.
Whether you are a Chef, a Sommelier or the Manager of a staff of over 200 frontline Customer Service Employees, (which I am)-listening to and then reacting positively to the constructive criticism of customers is vital in order for your business to prosper.
Let me cite an example that speaks to this issue of the Chef accepting criticism from a customer (or a Food Writer), and then turning it into a positive that will benefit both the Chef and his customers in the future.
In August, I dined at one of the top restaurants in Las Vegas. The kitchen is headed by a rising star on the American culinary stage.
Overall the dinner was fabulous, but there was one real clunker in the bunch-the cheese course. This is a quote from a blog I wrote about the dish:
“I was served the most adventuresome cheese of the three-an unpasteurized ewe’s milk cheese from Portugal garnished with “caramelized chorizo.”
I anticipated the ewe’s milk cheese having a strong aroma and bitter flavor, but it was actually mild in flavor with a wonderful, creamy texture. But the caramelized chorizo was way too bitter and strong to be paired with the cheese. (The sausage had a gamey, strong aroma and the caramelized sugar covering the meat was distasteful).
Our table agreed that a simple caramel sauce drizzled over the cheese would have been a more appropriate garnish.”
We shared our criticism of the cheese dish directly with the Chef when he came over to our table to discuss the dinner.
Instead of turning up his nose at the mere suggestion that we would dare challenge his skills, he gracefully accepted our criticisms and what followed was a spirited discussion of how the Chef could make the cheese dish better in the future.
I think that’s a perfect example of how a Chef, secure in his talent but always looking to learn and grow, accepts the criticism of his customers.
It’s petty and immature for a Chef to throw a customer out of a restaurant and choose not to serve them because said customer used the power of the pen to criticize the chef publicly.
Is it fair for John to openly share his opinions about Rochat’s restaurants with the public? You bet it is.
John, as the customer, had every right to criticize Rochat for not serving him at his restaurant based on a review John had previously done.
It doesn’t matter if it was 6 years ago or 6 days ago, one bad experience can spoil a customer forever, years later. Is that fair to Rochat? Yes. As the saying goes, “you only get one chance to make a first impression.”
Should John give Rochat and his staff another chance now? Yes. Definitely yes.
On these pages, John openly said that “when Rochat lets me back in his restaurants, I’ll be there with bells on.”
To be continued…………..
part two…………………
In regards to the debate over whether or not John Curtas is “qualified” to be a restaurant critic, allow me to chime in with some facts in defense of my support for John and his work.
Upon reflection, who would have imagined that what began as a childish spat brought on by the supporters of Chef Rochat, would turn into a grown-up attack on a man who was simply offering an opinion. An opinion I happen to support.
It was apparent, (at least to me), that the deck was stacked against John from the start. As so often is the case in today’s world of food writing on the Internet, the focus of what the “Critic” reported became secondary to the vicious, outrageous attacks against the personal character of the Critic.
In other words, the “Critic” became “critiqued”-his opinions about his food and dining experiences at Chez Rochat fell upon deaf ears as the opponents took up the fight.
The “Critics of the Critic” seemingly were out for blood, side-tracking the debate away from the texture of the sweetbreads and the bouquet of the wine into an all-out war that sunk to such a low point I felt compelled to step into the ring and call time-out.
Any Food Writer worth his sea salt obviously realizes that not everyone will agree with his or her review of a restaurant or a particular Chef. That’s fair and John certainly realizes that. And it’s also fair to challenge the critic to explain his or her review-as long as the debate focuses on the food and service. Back-up your claims with facts and a first-hand report on the dishes you tasted when you dined at that restaurant. If you disagree, tell us why-that’s fair.
But when the audience turns to throwing rotten tomatoes at the Critic and makes outrageous statements, without merit or fact, which disrespects the personal integrity of the Writer-that’s when I’ve had enough.
That’s what some of you did when you criticized John. I found it disrespectful and lacking in class. (aka, accusations that John’s “articles are buyable and you write to further whatever agenda you have,” and “the restaurant scene in Las Vegas knows John Curtas and they know his game.”)
He’s not a hack or slave to anyone. He writes and reports about the Las Vegas food and dining scene because it’s one of his passions. He doesn’t have a hidden agenda, nor is he pressured by anyone to be a lackey for a particular restaurant.
First, let’s talk about credentials. Chris questioned John’s qualifications to be a critic because he didn’t have a piece of parchment paper with a gold seal on it certifying that he attended the University of Food Writing.
Chris then changed the platform of his argument to state that it’s a matter of birth rite-“over 150 years my family has owned a vineyard in the Champagne region of France…..establishing solid credentials for the basis of my letter.”
I doubt the substance of either pretense as it relates to the qualifications of John Curtas as a Restaurant Critic. The place of one’s birth nor their graduation from a particular University doesn’t pre-determine one’s success to write about food.
More than any other individual in the past fifteen years, John has fought to encourage and promote the Las Vegas dining scene through his reports. He’s done that by being both a Critic that constructively calls for the Chefs to improve their craft and to be a supportive voice when they triumph.
As you read in his response to C. Mullins, Mr. Curtas has invested literally hundreds of thousands of his own dollars and countless hours of his own time to share his experiences with the public.
Yet spending time and money does not in itself make Mr. Curtas a qualified Critic. It does, however, show a sacrifice and commitment that few of us would follow and an admirable qualification at that.
John was mistakenly accused of not being able to address the technical aspects of Béarnaise, (a false accusation that was later uncovered to be intended for another gentleman named “John.”)
I’d rather hear the question presented in terms of “does a Restaurant Critic have to have a knowledge of food, ingredients, technique and the skill to craft a passable “Béarnaise” to be qualified?”
Yes, in my opinion, it’s a critical qualification-but you better know which “John,” (or Jason, Joe or Jenny for that matter), is in the kitchen before you proclaim he can’t stir eggs.
Another crucial point is to look at history-and I think some of you have overlooked the history found in John’s writings.
If you take the time and effort to review the breadth of his work, you’ll realize that he does in fact have the depth of knowledge to be able to astutely discuss and report on intense dining issues as far-ranging as the “terroir” that is so vital to Nicolas Joly and the wondrous Chenin Blanc that he crafts, to the politically-charged issue of farm-raised salmon.
John can school you on the finer points of the chemicals fed to these poor salmon, down to the colors of the dyes used to intensify the redness of the flesh of the fish-and why that fish doesn’t come close to the clean, fresh taste of wild, Copper-River salmon from Alaska.
And yes, he can in fact differentiate and prepare a classic Béarnaise or Hollandaise. He’s also quite adept at Bouillabaisse, Cioppino and searing whole beef tenderloin.
One final qualification that John has that I think is vital to his success and the success of the Las Vegas restaurant community is that he is respected by the Chefs and the employees who work in the trade. They welcome his feedback. At least that’s my interpretation of what I have personally witnessed. (I realize some of you doubt that assessment).
The success of John’s work is measured in part by the fact that KLAS, KNPR, The James Beard Foundation, Bon Appétit Magazine, The University of Nevada Las Vegas and The Food Network have called upon John to work with them.
Do you honestly think that these companies would continue to call upon John if they didn’t have the utmost respect and confidence in his work? Of course not.
They realize that Las Vegas is one of the most exciting dining destinations in America and is the home to a growing fraternity of talented chefs. Their customers, viewers, listeners and readers are craving more and more information about the restaurants of Las Vegas and they realize John is a conduit that can help them deliver that information.
Now to the point of those servers who felt that John disrespected them by not leaving what they felt was an adequate tip for their service-especially given the fact that they reported the meal was complimentary.
I can’t dispute those reports because I wasn’t there. But I have had the pleasure of dining with John on many occasions, and what was reported is far from the truth of my experience.
I can say based on personal experience that more often than not our (Food Writers) meals are fully paid for out of our own pockets.
We never, ever, “expect” a complimentary meal. On the occasions where we are given a complimentary meal, without hesitation, we always, always, present the staff with a tip that equals to or is greater than the actual cost of the dinner. That’s our gesture to insure that the staff knows we appreciate their efforts.
“Andre’s Chef Downtown” was one of the early critics of the Critic who eventually showed grace and the voice of reason when he said, “the Michelin star is a daily mantra of passion and dedication I meditate on to find consistency and energy.”
Bravo Chef. Continue to set your sights on that goal and listen to the voices of your Critics—and your supporters.
Let’s not forget that the success of the “Critic” is predicated on the success of the Chef. And likewise, the success of the Chef is contingent on the success of the Critic.
Merci beaucoup for the suport dr, the $20 is in the mail!
….and remember the immortal words of Max Vanderveere (the acerbic restaurant critic in Ted Kotcheff’s 1978 classic: Who’s Killing The Great Chefs Of Europe): “My dear fellow, one mustn’t have laid an egg to be able to smell a bad one.”