ELV remembers when the Dome of the Sea in the Dunes Hotel was the ne plus ultra of seafood restaurants in the High Mojave Desert. Actually, for about thirty years it was the only seafood restaurant around here. We remember with fondness the harpist who traveled around the restaurant on a moving track, playing melodically mediocre light classical tunes to distract the diners from the time-worn, tired and tepid recipes being served up (frozen sole almandine anyone?)
Now we have two seafood restaurants (RM Seafood and Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare) that compete with the best in the country. Le Bernadin in NYC is generally considered the best seafood restaurant in America, but nothing Eric Ripert served us in January (at a highly disappointing lunch there) competes with our last two meals at RM. Click here to hear my first review of RM Seafood, shortly after it opened in 2005. (FYI: The service flaws I complained of at the time were corrected long ago.)
Rick Moonen has been blowing us away with his innovative (and politically correct/sustainable) seafood recipes ever since we first wandered into Oceana in New York way back in 1994. Since moving here four years ago, he has firmly established himself as one celebrity chef who is always at the stoves and dedicated to his kitchen. At one time he was the only chef in New York to hold six stars from the New York Times ( 3 stars each for Oceana and Molyvos where he was also the Executive Chef).
It’s an outrage that he didn’t merit a Michelin star for the superior swimmers he cooks every night at the Mandalay Bay (BTW: His steak and short ribs are stunning as well.) RM’s sleek and warm dining room remains one of the most comfortable, intimate and charming on the Strip, and if he’d just install a wandering harpist, all would be right with the world.
In the Mandalay Bay Hotel and Casino
3930 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Las Vegas, NV 89119