Running a three-meal-a-day restaurant in a busy Las Vegas hotel has to be one of the toughest jobs in the hospitality business. It’s one thing if the operation is a glorified coffee shop, but quite another if it aspires to be a top-flight French steakhouse with a wine bar, an outdoor patio, and a menu that runs the gamut from sparkling oysters to eggs Benedict to dry-aged ribeyes. Add a cheese program, au courant cocktails, tableside Caesar salads, rolling beverage carts, artisanal beers, and late-night dining, and you have the service challenge to end all service challenges. But every day of every week, from daybreak until well past midnight, G.M. Louis Hirsch (pictured) keeps Morel’s Steakhouse running like a luxury timepiece. I ate four meals here in the past year — two when I was recognized and two when I was not — and the service was perfect every time. JL Carrera’s classic steakhouse fare never disappoints; the ease and professionalism with which it is served, morning, noon and night, only deepens the pleasure of dining at this unsung restaurant.
MOREL’S FRENCH STEAKHOUSE & BISTRO
The Palazzo Hotel and Casino