Clearing the Air on OLD HOMESTEAD
As erudite, illuminating and incisive as our five six word review* of Old Homestead’s food was, the message didn’t sink into the wine-soaked sensibilities of some of our loyal readers.
So we thought we’d post some of our better tasty snaps along with whatever pithy or condensed comment sprang into our spirits-soaked brain as we were chowing down on our three meals here.
As for the beef, we found it to be top tier and possessed of a nice, round, roasted earthiness you find in better beef — not as funky as Carnevino’s but as satisfying as a steer can get that didn’t also supply leather for your wardrobe.
The bread is one of our town’s best, the salads look like someone in the kitchen cares what they look like, and the steakhouse standards: wedge salad, crab cakes, roasted breast of “Petaluma” chicken, et al, all make up in quality infrastructure what they lack in imagination. Put everything together, and you have that rarest of creatures: a spinoff restaurant that’s actually better than its flagship. (ELV has eaten in OH multiple times stretching back to the late 80′s and most recently a year ago. Calling it tired and run-of-the-mill is like proclaiming Greeks to be bad accountants. Writing the whole operation off has been practically a cottage industry for Big Apple food writers, who have gone out of their way to ignore it during the past decade’s steakhouse boom all around Manhattan. Luger’s gets all the love, while OH barely rates a shrug.
These things cannot have escaped Mark and Greg Sherry, who have owned the operation since the 1970s. They’ve watched their iconic brand languish while brighter, shinier objects attract the steak gaze of the carnivore chattering classes. Now, with the marketing muscle (and kitchen talent) of Caesars Palace behind them, they can reclaim some open range for a 134 year old brand, and make a mountain of money while they’re doing it.
Bully for them.
Bully for Caesars,.
Bully for everyone but the poor bull.
OLD HOMESTEAD STEAK HOUSE
In Caesars Palace Hotel and Casino
3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
* “…the food here is fucking fantastic.”