When the crispy won ton strips come to your table tasting like they were fried in clean, fresh oil only seconds ago, you know you’re on to something.
Something in this case would be a little noodle shop, on the east side of town, in an area where Blueberry Hill and video poker bars provide the only sustenance for body and soul. It hasn’t been open long (weeks? months?), but of the three dishes we tried — spicy cold noodle salad, pork wontons in chile oil and salt and pepper chicken — the first two were mighty fine indeed, tasting of fresh pasta and that Chinese peppery-oily complexity this cuisine excels at (when it’s done right).
The oil in which those wontons floated was both slightly sweet, slightly soy-salty, and lip-numbing from the Sichuan peppers. The spicy salad was a bracing tangle of just-cooked noodles, tarted up just so, and just the thing on a hot summer’s day. The salt and pepper chicken tasted like better-seasoned chicken McNuggets and is best forgotten about.
The best things they do here are (obviously) the noodles….so our guess is stay with that side of the menu and you’ll be thrilled. You’ll also be thrilled with your whole meal (pour deux) costing around $26 (including tip)….which may be the only thrill you can afford after blowing your paycheck at the Blue Ox.
BEIJING NOODLE CAFE
4130 Sandhill Road #A-4
Las Vegas, NV 89121