It tastes like a bracing slurp of the sea combined with a hint of almond and oh-so-slight (and oh-so-slightly spicy) bitterness.
In other words, avgotaraho aikieroto aka bottarga, tastes like nothing else. It is a rare and exquisite food that remains something of a secret on this side of the pond, but Arabs, Greeks and other Mediterranean folk have been preserving their fish roe this way for thousands of years — making avgotaraho not only one of the most unique tastes in food, but also one of the most historical.
Italian bottarga is generally firmer than Greek avgotaraho — making it perfect for grating over pasta — while the Greek version is best sliced thin and served atop crusty bread — as you can see above. Cheaper versions use tuna roe and are not pressed into the wooden blocks that give this product its characteristic shape. A thick coating of beeswax surrounding the roe, is also a sign of inferior quality, Milos chef/owner Costas Spiliadis tells us, and the version he serves is so revered it is listed as a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) product by the European Union — like Belgian lambic beers and Roquefort cheese.
Amazingly, the same fish that supplies this highly regarded roe world wide can be found in our very own Colorado River, making ELV wonder if there’s not a place at our gourmet table for something from Lake Mead yet.
Until that happens, Milos is the only place to get your mullet roe fix. We predict one bite and you’ll be hooked forever.
In The Cosmopolitan Hotel and Casino
3708 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
BTW: ELV thinks Milos should give away an order every night to the first non-Greek person who can say av-go-ta-RAH-o ache-EE-er-roto twice without slipping.