You would think that anyone with a brain, eating at a restaurant serving food and wine as beautiful as this:
…would have the decency not to show up for dinner looking like this:
But the bruise brothers obviously think sports bar apparel is appropriate wherever they go. We’d like to think they lost their way on the way to Applebee’s, but the truth is, an entire generation of men, right now roughly between the ages of 30-50, think it is their Constitutional right to look like sh*t in any restaurant, anytime, as long as they are “comfortable.”
John Mariani decried this trend a decade ago as “creeping California casualness,” but we’re convinced the “creeping” has taken full flower, and the unsightly creeps have now taken over.
Much as the economic retreat from fine dining has given restaurateurs license to retreat from quality cooking and decor (e.g. no table linens, and all the atrocious pizzas, sliders and “tapas” we’re seeing), this downscaling of attire has given implicit permission to the unkempt and ill-styled to appear anywhere, looking like anything, and feel like they fit in.
But when a restaurant as stylish as Le Cirque has to put up with bad khaki miscreants who don’t own a belt or a tie, a line has most certainly been crossed, and we at ELV can only bemoan the further decline of western civilization.