Archive for the ‘Rant’

The Food Dude Diary – by John Mariani

August 30, 2010 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, Food, Rant, Reviews, Zines 4 Comments →

ELV note: The following was published this past Saturday in John Mariani’s The Virtual Gourmet online ‘zine. In satirical form, it pretty much captures the illiterate idiocy that permeates the way most guys under 40 think (or think they should think) about food and restaurants — which has created a deadly dull cycle of negative reinforcement between food television and its brain dead audience.

All of it makes ELV long for a time when fops like this guy ruled the restaurant writing roost. At least they were original, witty, incisive and smart…and you never heard the words “yo” or “dude.”

Here is the link to the original article, which will also link you to a certain review of a certain Arthur Avenue Italian restaurant written by a certain critic whom you know and love.

THE FOOD DUDE DIARY

By John Mariani

Yo, I was like waiting outside Shake Shack for like ninety @#$%^ minutes in 100-degree heat for their Shackburger, but, hey, I once waited two @#$%^ hours in the rain outside Torrisi’s for a sub sandwich. Whatever. So I see my friend Donny, who says, “Dude, get outta line, man, we’re going over to this new place on the Lower East Side where they sell bangin’ bahn mi for like four bucks. Like nobody even knows the freakin’ place is even open yet.”

We hopped in a cab and split the eleven dollar fare, and–@#$%^–when we got there, there’s like 60 freakin’ people waiting outside already because Eater already wrote it up that morning. I was pissed. And hungry. So I said to Donny, “Yo, you know what? Why don’t we go over to Momofuku Ko and see if there’s like a cancellation? If there isn’t, we can see if we can score a pizza at Pulino’s and check out the hotties on line.”

So, no @#$%, we get to Ko, (left) and the guy says, “This is your lucky night, we just had a no-show for two people.” I said, “Dude, you have made our freakin’ day!” So Donny and I sit down on those stools without the backs and they’re playing Girls at Dawn—who I just saw at Brufar Falls like two nights ago!—and we’re chowing down on Chang’s awesome pork belly and this other great shit I don’t actually remember now, but, yo, it was worth the $125 bucks plus drinks. Like you pay what you gotta pay for awesome food, right?

Next day I’m hungry again, and my man Donny says there’s a fried chicken and waffles place in Williamsburg we need to check out. Maybe we can be the first to twitter about it. So we take another taxi—this time $27—so we get there fast, and $%^&*! We can see a line forming outside, but we still get there just as it opens, so they let us in but say they haven’t got any chairs or tables or beer license yet. I tell the guy no problem, man, we came for the freakin’ chicken. Then we wait, like %^&* forty-five minutes, but it was worth it. Real crisp, real meaty, with this orange sauce—I don’t know what the @#$%% it was but it was awesome. Fifty-two bucks for the two of us.

I’m already twittering like mad, saying how the place wasn’t redecorated at all since this was a plumbing supply shop—funny thing was, the urinals didn’t work—like real industrial. Smells funky too. And there’s two Mexican guys in the back cooking, you can smell they’re using real lard, man, and the waitress is a deadringer for that bangin’ spy on, what’s that show? The music, I don’t know what the @#$$ it was, just loud, man, but it rocked.

Then I get a message on my Blackberry, and s#$%&! It’s my friend Laurie and she’s going to be on freakin’ TV, in the background of some Paraguyan chile joint in Astoria while that douchebag Adam Richman (above) shoots a segment of “Man v Food.” I am like freakin’ pissed she didn’t tell me she was even going there.

Like I didn’t take her to that taping of Guy Fieri (left) demolishing that Greek lasagna at the diner in the Bronx? That is messed up! I am done with this $%^&, man!


MASTRO’S Blows

July 21, 2010 By: John Curtas Category: Food, Rant, Reviews 9 Comments →

ELV wants to know one thing and only one thing: Who did Mastro’s have to blow to get such a prime piece of real estate in the Crystals Mall?

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No More Tuna!

July 19, 2010 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Food, Rant 9 Comments →

No more tuna!

Picture 1 of 1

Before we praise Masimilliano Campanari’s food at Osteria del Circo, and describe to you in loving, intimate detail why we think his new menu has catapulted Circo back to the top of Italian restaurants in Vegas, first allow us this rant:

If one more Vegas chef puts one more piece of tuna in front of us in one more restaurant….WE’RE GOING TO STICK A FORK IN OUR EYE….and then throw it and a knife at him or her.

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In Case You Missed It – Bloggers Gone Wild! on KNPR

June 18, 2010 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, Food, Interviews, KNPR, Rant, Reviews, Wine 1 Comment →

Click here to hear this morning’s Food Talk on News 88.9 FM – KNPR Nevada Public Radio, wherein Slapsie Maxie and moi interrogate, illuminate, eviscerate, hypothecate and pontificate about various subjects in today’s food and restaurant world.

Today’s topics included:

An interview with uber-restaurant writer John Mariani on his recent trip to Las Vegas;

Local bloggers Mike Dobranski and Jillian Plaster on what, why, how and when they blog about Vegas’ restaurants;

Max and my Top Five Wine Peeves; and

EAT IT OR BEAT IT, where we cross swords over:

Lola’s,

Nero’s Steakhouse, and

El Segundo Sol.

The Worst of Las Vegas

April 19, 2010 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Food, Openings, Rant, Reviews 32 Comments →

It’s not easy living with the worst metropolitan newspaper in America. But when they invade our territory, something needs to be said. Here are our comments on some of the Review-Journal’s “Best Of…” categories in food and drink.

This isn’t pretty.

You have been warned.

RESULTS OF THE REVIEW-JOURNAL’S BEST OF LAS VEGAS READER’S POLL:

2010 – Best Bar Food

Readers’ Pick:

Timbers Bar & Grill

Multiple locations

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We figure Timbers’ win this year has much to do with a menu that’s heavy on comfort food/bar food favorites, updated with slightly sophisticated touches in keeping with modern tastes. And the beauty of this menu is its vast variety, including seven types of burgers, plus fish, steaks, pizza and more. Longtime winner PT’s Pub finishes a distant second.

Our Pick:

Steiner’s — A Nevada-Style Pub

Multiple locations

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When we think of Steiner’s we think of dark, dank, smoky poker bars — because Steiner’s is none of these things. No, this is a poker bar for the 21st century and it has the menu to prove it, with such dishes as a lamb chop appetizer, the mere memory of which makes us hungry. And we like the fact that Steiner’s has such a sense of place, with the dishes on its menu named after various Nevada locales.

ELV Pick: Steiner’s is okay, Timbers is frozen food heaven, and both are populated by the sort of video poker drones who give our neighborhood bars a bad name. A great example of the low-brow clientele the R-J constantly panders to.

Neither is in the same league as the munchies at FIRST Food & Bar.

Runner Up: Simon at Palms Place.

2010 – Best Barbeque

Readers’ Pick:

Famous Dave’s

Multiple locations

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We wonder how much Dave himself becoming the frontman on his company’s commercials — a sort of latter-day version of that other famous Dave, the late Mr. Thomas of Wendy’s — has to do with this chain becoming front and center in readers’ minds, but we’d guess it’s also because there are so many valley locations that it’s convenient to all. Oh, and those ribs, lip-smackin’ good. Memphis Championship Barbecue finishes second.

Our Pick:

T.C.’S Rib Crib

8470 W. Desert Inn Road

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T.C.’s is kind of the antithesis of Famous Dave’s — one little storefront, versus a slew of locations — but what they do have in common is dedication to the art of barbecue. Three types of ribs are available, but the pulled pork never fails to amaze us with its sweet, smoky, moist and tender wonderfulness. And we absolutely love the fact that we can get fried okra on the side.

ELV Pick: The barbecue in Las Vegas is horrendously bad, and as a dyed-in-the-wool Southern ‘cue snob, we can assure you no one at the R-j or their readers knows a damn thing about the subject. But when we have a hankerin’ for pulled pork or baby backs we go to Memphis Championship Barbecue. It ain’t Maurice’s Piggy Park, or Kreutz’s, or Struttin’ Gates, but is good enough when a craving hits.

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Worst Restaurant in City Center Named Best New Restaurant

April 19, 2010 By: John Curtas Category: Rant 6 Comments →

ELV note: The press release last Friday read as follows:

EVA LONGORIA PARKER’S BESO STEAKHOUSE IS NAMED
“BEST NEW RESTAURANT” BY LAS VEGAS REVIEW-JOURNAL’S ANNUAL
2010 BEST OF LAS VEGAS READERS’ POLL

LAS VEGAS – Eva Longoria Parker’s celebrated steakhouse, Beso, was named “Best New Restaurant” by the Las Vegas Review-Journal 2010 Annual Best of Las Vegas readers’ poll.

The Las Vegas interpretation, situated directly beneath her opulent nightclub Eve, is Longoria Parker’s second restaurant, modeled after her popular, original Beso in Hollywood . Since opening in December 2009 at Crystals in the world-renowned CityCenter complex, Beso has quickly become a favorite hotspot among locals and celebrities alike.

In a brief note to us over the weekend, Eric Gladstone said it best:

Dear John,

Please express my condolences to Shawn McClain, Pierre Gagnaire, Julian Serrano and probably about 10 other new restauranteurs in town. This might be the worst of many offenses in the R-J poll

Eric

Well said Eric.


Simplify, Simplify

April 12, 2010 By: John Curtas Category: Chefs, Food, Rant 11 Comments →

We don’t know what Henry David Thoreau would make of Las Vegas’s restaurant scene, but, he’d probably conclude (once we cleaned him up, gave him a tour, and put some decent grub in his gut), that there’s too much and not enough going on at the same time.

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In Case You Missed It – John & Max’s Food Talk on KNPR’s State Of Nevada

March 17, 2010 By: John Curtas Category: Celebrity Chef Hell, Chefs, Critics, Food, Interviews, KNPR, Rant, Reviews No Comments →

Here is the link for last week’s KNPR-State Of Nevada’s Food Talk featuring interviews with:

Bon Appetit Editor Barbara Fairchild;

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SPAGO Lunch + A Pet Peeve

March 12, 2010 By: John Curtas Category: Food, Rant, Reviews 14 Comments →

Pet Peeve time.

When did every upscale Strip restaurant decide it was a good idea to shave raw black truffles on top of things?

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NAMASTE Rant

January 25, 2010 By: John Curtas Category: Rant 33 Comments →

We keep eating at Namaste because the food is so good, and because it’s impossible to get a seat at Lotus of Siam anymore. Three times in the last month we’ve driven to Commercial Center (on Monday and Tuesday nights), and seen a line out the door at Lotus, while this food goes begging for customers. (note: Omh Singh, we just found out, is no longer at Namaste.)

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