From left, Laurent Tourondel, Daniel Boulud, critic John Curtas, Hubert Keller, Guy Savoy.Photo: Daniel Boulud
As the Times announced yesterday, Frank Bruni’s reign as head critic there will end in late August, timed to the publication of his memoir. In the interim four months, the parlor game du jour is coming up with possible replacements for him. Names already making the rounds include in-house Times writers like Oliver Schwanner-Albright; crowd favorites like our own Adam Platt and $25 and Under scribe Peter Meehan; wild cards like David Kamp; and, here are two more, Christine Muhlke (T Magazine) or Charlotte Druckman, once of Food & Wine. One of the most difficult issues the Times faces is deciding how anonymous this critic has to be. Even Bruni, as ubiquitous as he is, is still able to sneak into restaurants without being made. But how necessary is this for a future critic? For example, and for the sake of discussion, here’s a photo with four of the most important chefs in Las Vegas throwing the biggest critic in town into a pool. Daniel Boulud explains: “During Bon Appetit‘s Uncork’d event at Caesars Palace, a couple of famous French chefs were tossing up the notorious Las Vegas food critic John Curtas. He almost ended up in the pool!!”
http://nymag.com/daily/food/2009/05/will_the_next_times_critic_be.html
p.s. to ELV ‘s loyal readers: The issue of anonymity is an interesting one, and an ethical connundrum I confront weekly. It is true that I cannot dine in any of these gentlemen’s restaurants (and a few dozen others in town) anonymously — and haven’t for years. On the other hand there are hundreds of others (every place on Spring Mountain Rd. for example) that I’ve dined in dozens of times and they have no idea who I am or what I’m doing there. And even in places where I may be known — like Rosemary’s, Settebello, Olives, Nora’s et al — I often slip in and out (and pay the freight) — without being spotted. p.p.s. The issue of comps is another hot-button one, and something we’ll address at another time. In the meantime though, I always try to mention when something hasn’t been paid for, and I like to think I’ve built up enough credibility over the past 15 years (both with chefs and the public) that everyone knows I give an honest assessment of what’s been eaten — regardless of the cost and regardless of who paid for it.
Anonymity can be blessing and curse. While in theory it affords a freedom from bias, it can also license unchecked irresponsibility. Any critic should truly be willing to defend his/her opinions and to say them out loud in a crowded room. True, being known–and to an even greater extent, being comped–means the kitchen and staff can give you untoward attention, it also means a critic can discount that. Often even when a kitchen or staff is working at their best, they still leave much to be desired.
Ultimately, integrity is what matters.
ELV, how did you escape out of that pool incident? Mumbled some legalese on the chefs and scared them?
In the end, integrity is the only thing that matters. I’d rather not say anything rather than pretend to like something because someone else paid for it. One of the reasons I like you so much John (in spite of the fact that you’re a lawyer in the day job – but that’s another issue altogether) is your personal integrity. And the fact that you’re nuts. One lifelong friend/fan here!
Priceless face in that picture, John. They all seem to be having fun but you.
Anonimity is key.
that’s why they should give you the yob.