Part Two of Doc Sconz’s look at the Wynn has him prowling around the baking ovens with Boris Villatte; the second half of the dynamic duo that makes the breads and pastries there so superb.
Villatte is such a master of his metier, we generally throw caution to the wind and ignore the age-old adage: “Don’t fill up on bread.” whenever we’re within a stone’s throw of any Wynn restaurant.
ELV attended a private tasting of Villatte’s work a couple of years ago, along with uber-chefs Philippe Rispoli and Laurent Tourondel. When we questioned them about how (and why) Villatte’s breads are so consistently excellent (and what about his talent makes them so), Tourondel remarked: “It’s his training. It is so tough; he doesn’t know how NOT to make them (so) good.”
And Villatte’s fellow French chefs were as in awe of his creations as we are….