PIZZA AGONISTES by John Mariani

March 31, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, Food, Zines

ELV note: This article is from the current edition of John Mariani’s Virtual Gourmet and originally appeared on Esquire.com. We re-publish it here on the slim chance that a few of our loyal readers do not already subscribe to Mariani’s essential Web publication. Read away in either format and prepare to get hungry.

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It’s been a bad month for bad pizza. First, Sbarro announced the closing of 155 of its 400 U.S. stores, then declared bankruptcy. Again.  Then, in one of the few conservative judicial decisions I actually applaud, Justice Antonin Scalia, born in Trenton, NJ, declared that Chicago-style deep-dish pizza “shouldn’t be called pizza. It’s very tasty, but it’s not pizza.”

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Savoring the Sweet 16 on My News 3

March 29, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Events, Food, Wake Up With the Wagners

ELV: Now that the University of Louisville has suffered a (select one:  bonecrushing, gut-wrenching, ego-deflating, gonad-shriveling) defeat at the hands of hated Kentucky, ELV is barely able to crawl out of bed this morning. Those of you still interested in the (select one: stupid, juvenile, overrated, sophomoric, commercial-driven, corrupt, made-for-television freak show) NCAA Men’s Basketball Tournament might want to watch this….but what’s the point? ELV is retiring to his hovel with a bag of Cheetos and a quart of Maker’s Mark for the day. That is all.

SAVORING THE SWEET 16

(Best Sports Bars)

Pizza Rock – 201 N. 3rd Street

Todd English P.U.B. – Aria Hotel and Casino

Aces and Ales – 3470 S. Nellis Blvd.

Steiner’s – Multiple locations

Lagasse Stadium – Palazzo Hotel and Casino

Letter of the Century – How Does Taste Evolve?

March 26, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Critics, Food For Thought, Letter of the Week

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Dear Eating Las Vegas,

You recently wrote a caption on a photo you posted on Facebook, “I think I could eat ‘modern Japanese’ food every day of my life and not get bored.

It made me wonder how you, as a food critic who’s refined his palate over the course of many years, came to appreciate a cuisine like this which, admittedly, is not a commonplace offering in most of America?

At what point does taste get refined to appreciate the subtleties of a cuisine like Modern Japanese, or even to start exploring? Any art form (film, music, art, etc.) has levels of refinement, as the curious audience member ventures off to more significant, and more difficult to interpret, levels of appreciation. How does it happen with food?

Inquisitively yours,

Curious George

ELV responds:

The best way we can answer the question(s) is to give you a brief tour of what ELV calls: The Evolution of a Critic.

Our good friend, author, food writer, Esquire magazine food critic and noted chronicler of the history of American food and drink,  John Mariani says there are 3 kinds of food critics: “The slobs, the snobs and the oh goodie goodies.”

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New Kids On the Block (on My News 3)

March 22, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Openings, Wake Up With the Wagners

ELV — sporting more chins than a Chinese phone book — discussed our recent (neighborhood) restaurant renaissance and ramen revolution with Kim Wagner yesterday on KSNV TV – My News 3, and announced his top picks among these notable and noshable newcomers.

The Commissary – Downtown Grand Hotel, 206 N. 3rd Street

Cornish Pasty Co. – Commercial Center, 953 East Sahara Ave.

District One Kitchen & Bar – 3400 South Jones Blvd.

The Goodwich – 1516 Las Vegas Blvd. South

Fat Dumpling – 3959 W. Spring Mountain Road

Hiromaru – 5300 W. Spring Mountain Road

Stewart + Ogden – Downtown Grand Hotel, 206 N. 3rd Street

The Top 30(?) Foodie Destinations in Las Vegas

March 20, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Food

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Because they were buried somewhat in an earlier post….and because numb nut newspaper and magazine stringers just might learn something, here they are (again), updated and in no particular order, for your debate and delectation:

1) Raku

2) Kabuto

3) Sweets Raku

4) Carnevino

5) Spago

6) L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

7) Joel Robuchon

8) Restaurant Guy Savoy

9) Chada Thai

10) Twist by Pierre Gagnaire

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Letter of the Week – Who’s This Chumlee Fellow?

March 19, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Letter of the Week, Rant

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ELV note: An enraged reader recently wrote:

Dear Eating Las Vegas,

According to Eater.com, some character named Chumlee from Pawn Stars is now a restaurant critic, and I am flat out depressed about the death of reason and the limitless ignorance of mankind.

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The UNLVino Rad Off-The-Hook BLOWOUT ‘14

March 15, 2014 By: mitchell Category: Events, Food, Wine

Hold on to your most radical of hats, bros and broettes, firmly by the brim, and make that red sucker turn a three-sixty, then another 120 degree turn, COUNTER clockwise!  Yeah, that’s right, screw time!  That’s a concept we won’t be needing where we’re going, which is NOW.

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This Just In: ELV Spreading Rumors, Settling Scores and Set to Salaciously Sip

March 12, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Rant, Travel, Zines

Good evening Mr. and Mrs. North and South America and all the ships and clippers at sea….

Item: Honey Salt Expanding Empire.

As predicted on these pages over a year ago, the entrepreneurs behind Summerlin’s Honey Salt are set to open two new stores in northwest Las Vegas. If our sources are correct, one will be called Honey Q and will be taking over the old Hops & Harvest space. (Good luck with that.) The other, we hear, will be called Honey Salt Steak and will be located in the new Red Rock Mall. (Another steakhouse in Vegas? What an original idea?)

Here’s hoping all this brand-expansion doesn’t result in another episode of  “Honey, I Shrunk the Profits.”

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It’s Restaurant Week 2014!

March 07, 2014 By: John Curtas Category: Deals, Events, Food, Wake Up With the Wagners

Be there or be Three Square!

ELV’s Top Picks for Restaurant Week:

1) Eiffel Tower Restaurant – $30.14 Lunch

2) Buddy V’s – $20.14 Lunch; $30.14 Dinner

3) Delmonico – $30.14 Lunch

4) MOzen Bistro – $30.14 Lunch; $40.14 Dinner

5) Morel’s Steakhouse & Bistro - $20.14 Breakfast; $30.14 Lunch; $50.14 Dinner

Other denoted notables for delicious deals and dynamite dining:

Table 10

AquaKnox

Poppy Den

Empress Court

Hakkasan

Honey Salt

Lawry’s The Prime Rib

Rick Moonen’s Rm Seafood

Todd’s Unique

Verandah – Four Seasons Hotel

Stewart+Ogden – The Grand Hotel Downtown

Mesa Grill

Hank’s Fine Steaks and Martinis at Green Valley Ranch Resort

Culinary Dropout

Bar + Bistro


The Goodwitch of the North

March 01, 2014 By: mitchell Category: Food, Openings, Reviews

Damn man, damn.  I have been so consistently wowed by this place, that I’ve been going back about twice a week.  It does help that it is five  minutes away from my hip (and only slightly dangerous) digs in “The Downtown”, but I would drive from Summerlin consistently and even bear slumming it in Dino’s (and I REALLY don’t like Dino’s) to enjoy these seriously bad-ass sandwiches.

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