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Many years ago, on KNPR-Nevada Public Radio, the pre-moniker ELV described a meal by quoting the great James Beard: “Great cooking should reflect and exalt the essence and the uniqueness of the ingredients,” Beard said. “A lobster dish should possess lobster-ness; a great steak: steak-ness.”
We went on to say that we didn’t know anything about those dishes at the place we were reviewing, but we did have the pea soup, and it certainly contained the requisite…well, it was pretty darn good too.