The pizza stakes are sufficiently high enough in Vegas these days to subject every new pie to a level of scrutiny unheard of even five years ago.
Such is the reason we’re not ready to pass judgment on DeMarco’s pizza yet.
Some things about it are wonderful: top shelf ingredients, a thick and rich marinara, good cheese, even better sausages, and salads that are dressed lightly like they’re supposed to be.
The crust, however, is a different story entirely. Even on the thin pies, it’s too thick and bread-y, and on the deep-dish ones, it’s a disaster — attaining almost a corn bread consistency with no attendant flavor pay-off.
Of course, ELV loathes any- and everything “deep dish,” but this one has none of the over-the-top, caloric catastrophes that obese mid-westerners seem to crave. It’s almost like they want to offer a deep-dish option without fully committing to the cheesy, overstuffed terribleness of a real one.
Pizza aficionados — and by aficionados we mean true connoisseurs, not every yahoo who loves whatever neighborhood, electric oven, Sysco-dependent dreck gets thrown at them — should stick with the thin (but could be thinner) crust, and appreciate the intense toppings, while holding out hope they learn how to get some flavor into the crust, and some thickness out of it.
While they’re working on these things, you can always enjoy your salads, or the killer meatballs and eggplant Parm, while, of course, looking at Yohana.
9785 West Charleston Blvd.
Las Vegas, NV 89117