Whenever we eat at J & J Szechuan (probably around ten times by now), we usually walk away wanting to proclaim it the best restaurant in town.
Cooler heads usually prevail and after all the fiery chilies have cooled down, we confine ourselves to praising it as our favorite Chinese restaurant in town. Then we eat at China MaMa and decide it is our fave….right up until our next meal at Yunnan Garden, Ping Pang Pong or Dong Ting Spring.
Regardless of our fickle Chinese affections, what we love about J & J are the vivid, bright, fresh and fiery flavors in all of its food. Its twice-cooked pork, flecked with black beans and flash-fried leeks is as good a version as you’ll find — salty, spicy and fatty goodness all wrapped around thin strips of blanched then stir-fried belly. (ELV note: a thousand (really more like three thousand) years before pork belly became a “hot” ingredient in American restaurants, Chinese chefs were twice cooking it to silky, succulent perfection.)
The other thing we love about J & J is it’s the only place in town that can get us to eat tofu, as in: plain tofu, neither stinky nor fried nor smoked. ELV firmly believes in that only people in third world countries have ever been happy to see a soybean, and he usually avoids them with the alacrity he employs to escape cupcakes. But gosh darn if the big creamy white chunks don’t add just the right, textural component to a big, steaming bowl of Szechuan fish with chilies. (Proof positive of our eager consumption can be seen in the photo above.)
Thankfully, no tofu comes within site of the dumplings in chile oil — a dish with a deep, porky, incendiary finish that lasts until next Tuesday. (It is our favorite dumpling dish along Spring Mountain Road.)
All of this goodness is served with a smile from Lanshu, who, if you ask nicely, will let you try to decipher the meaning of her wacky, translation-challenged t-shirt, and tell you her name in English is Carol. She will then bring you a check for $34 and you will leave (like ELV) asking yourself why you don’t dine here every day.
J & J SZECHUAN CUISINE
5700 Spring Mountain Road # A
Las Vegas, NV 89146-8861