The signs around the Golden Nugget proclaim Vic & Anthony’s “One of the 10 Best Steakhouses in America.”
It isn’t even one of the top 10 steakhouses in Las Vegas, but it is a pretty decent place to grab dinner, in a dark, cozy setting, whenever you’re stuck Downtown with a hankerin’ for some prime steer muscle, or a gigantic lobster tail, and a few tasty sides.
Those sides include crab cakes that are plenty crabby, decent lobster bisque, roasted quail that is perfectly cooked, but hampered by a too-sweet glaze, and a classic array of spuds with all the fixins.
We also liked the big shrimp remoulade — with the sauce being a lot closer to the real deal than the last version we had (at Mastro’s).
Best of all was the big, juicy rib eye — intense with roasted beef flavor — that came with a bearnaise of proper taste and texture — like a buttery, tarragon-flecked cloud.
Slapsie Maxie Jacobson took care of the check so we were pleasantly oblivious to such prosaic, plebian concerns, and allowed ourselves to float out of the Nugget on a steakhouse high.
Something we haven’t done Downtown since the Top of the Mint was in its heyday.
Btw: V & A occupies the old California Pizza Kitchen digs at the Nugget, and is at least the fifth restaurant we can remember in this spot…going all the way back to Lily Langtry’s (an art nouveau treasure with good Cantonese food) way back in the mid-’80’s.
VIC & ANTHONY’S STEAKHOUSE
In the Golden Nugget Hotel and Casino
129 Fremont Street
Las Vegas, NV 89101