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Fish heads, fish heads…roly poly fish heads…is all we can think of when we walk into this Mediterranean marvel at the Wynn.

But sometimes we dispense with those succulent swimmers altogether and just pop in for a little whipped foie gras on warm toast points — served with a nutty and deeply sweet, 10 year old Broadbent Malmsey Madeira, followed by some langoustine risotto that is the perfect marriage of land and sea. Both of them remind us why uber-critic Alan Richman calls this one of the greatest Italian restaurants in America, “…and actually affordable as long as you don’t order a whole fish.”

Which is why we sit at the bar, and stare longingly at the fish heads…whilst dreaming of drinking cappuccino in Italian restaurants with Oriental women.