Fremont Street – A Disaster Wrapped In A Debacle Surrounded By Failure

To hear ELV speak these profound-yet-depressing words in the pensive, melancholy, lugubrious, dejected, disappointed, despondent and disconsolate tones for which he is known, click here. Otherwise, continue reading after the jump.

BLOW IT UP!

Over the years, ELV has been as big a downtown booster as anyone he knows. He and his staff live downtown, work downtown, and have eaten downtown for over twenty-five years.

ELV remembers eating at a place called Cosmo’s Underground way back in 1982. It was right on Fremont Street and you walked down a flight of stairs to a cheesy, testament to Southern Italian kitsch. Amidst all the red-checkered tablecloths and plastic flowers, there was also a restaurant owned by a local who, on some level was proud of his little storefront, and did a pretty mean linguine with clams.

We also remember Lilly Langtry’s — and art nouveau ode to Cantonese cooking that nothing has approached in the seventeen years it’s been gone.

These days, there’s something of a movement by local restaurateurs to move their stores into casinos. Firefly and Tinoco’s have all invaded these environs, but for a number of reasons we fear they are headed the way of everything on Fremont street – and by that we mean straight to land of the low-life disaster.

Forget their generally tired formulas for food and unimaginative decor, the die is cast for them to be unmitigated failures in this land of the lost.

Just look around any of the hotels or the dozens of low rent kiosks that pass for the retail life blood of this sorry, tawdry, place and what do you see – hundreds of people who really can’t afford to be there, and are there only because everything about the place is so cheap.

Gambling should be about enjoying your disposable income, and by and large, when you stroll through Mandalay Bay or Caesars Palace you see folks who look like they can afford to be there. Downtown casinos are populated by those who ought to be stepping away from those games of chance and using the money to buy their little ones a pair of shoes.

An old time Las Vegas real estate lawyer once told us that the land comprising most of Fremont is a hodgepodge of parcels owned by dozens of trusts and out-of-state rich folks – none of whom has the slightest incentive to improve their property. That’s why down-at-the-heels casinos – not to mention dozens of sleazy stores – just keep milking the old dying cow for all she’s worth.

And because of this systemic complacency, ineptitude, and neglect, yours truly has but one solution to its revitalization.

Blow the place up! Steamroll it. All of it. Take it down to the dirt.

Let’s face it – no one cares a whit about the Union Plaza, and who would shed a tear for Binion’s …or Fitzgerald’s, if they disappeared. And if they got rid of the Sands and the DI (our two most iconic hotels) without a whisper, no one will protest when The Fremont hits the dustbin of history.

I’m through longing for something that will never be. Like a lover who’s finally facing reality, the downtown I once cared for is never to be again. Whatever Tinoco’s and Firefly are trying to do is too little too late.

There can be no progress without change, and the only way we’re ever going to improve Fremont Street (and be able to get a good meal there) is by the ultimate change of starting over….from scratch.

16 thoughts on “Fremont Street – A Disaster Wrapped In A Debacle Surrounded By Failure

  1. If they’re going to blow it up, they should do it right. Schedule one implosion every Saturday night. You could probably guarantee crowds all evening for months. Hey, you could even make one of the slot machine jackpots the right to push the virtual plunger. I’d gamble on that machine!

  2. I dunno, Mr. ELV. Have you seen the comments here? While I actually agree with you and Steve Friess that much of the “Old Vegas” nostalgia, as embodied Downtown, is overrated tackiness, it seems that the hoi polloi prefer their Vegas old and tacky.

    And honestly, I must admit that I liked my last visit to Fremont Street. I tried the new Firefly at The Plaza, and the food really was amazing. And while I always have fun dressing up to go out to dinner at Ago or enjoy a bite or three at Society after seeing Le Reve, sometimes it’s nice to shake up the old routine (and save some dinero) with a good ol’ video show and footlong margarita at Fremont Street.

    And besides, it’s isn’t a complete cultural wasteland downtown. Fremont East does have some hip indie clubs, and there are a handful of culinary diamonds in the rough. (Firefly, as I mentioned earlier, and Grotto at the always classy Golden Nugget.)

    Contrary to what you may think, a lot of folks probably would be furious if Fremont Street bites the dust. And as I suggested earlier this week, I do think there’s a “happy medium” balance between the old Kitschy Vegas and the new Haute Vegas to be found. I like the new glamour of The Strip, but Downtown will never be like The Strip so Fremont might as well keep its kitsch and hokeyness going for all the old timers and cheapo gamblers who appreciate it.

  3. I agree with John. While the recession is on, a stay of reprieve. Once (and if) we get hummin’ again, bring on the dynamite.

    We’ve already got the Mob museuam. Do we need a real life exhibit on wife beater t-shirts too?

    Male Meth head: Gee darlin, thats a nice tooth you got

    Female Meth Head: Let’s party!

  4. Vegasdave-

    We’ve already got the Mob museuam. Do we need a real life exhibit on wife beater t-shirts too?

    Unfortunately (or fortunately for whatever “budget travelers”/”Old Vegas” lovers are reading this), yes. I think one of the biggest mistakes the casinos made was in oversaturating the high-end market. It’s good for discerning travelers to have such a glut of 4 and 5-star hotel rooms available here for $100-200 per night (or even LESS if you know where to look), but it isn’t good enough for the casino giants’ bottom lines and it’s still too much for those traveling on limited budgets.

    Same goes for food. We appreciate gourmet dining. We appreciate quality ingredients, great technique, and beautiful presentation. However, there really are tourists and locals out there that just see the restaurants as pit stops for “cheap fuel”. Believe it or not, there are people out there that like those 99 cent shrimp cocktails.

    I think that’s the key here. We need variety. While we may not like the tacky offerings downtown, I do think there’s a role for Downtown as the “Old Vegas” alternative for visitors that don’t like the “New Vegas” offerings on The Strip.

    Come on, this town is big enough to handle both the discerning gourmands and the cheapo fanny-packers. Let them enjoy that $7.77 buffet special at The Plaza while we take in the real deal for lunch at Society or dinner at Fleur de Lys. ;-)

  5. @atdleft: Couldn’t agree more. There are times that staying downtown, going for the old .99 shrimp cocktail and eating the 9.99 meal is great fun. It brings back memories of my younger, poorer, easier to please side of 30 years ago.

  6. There’s no reason at all to blow up downtown. The Strip is what it is, and like it or not, downtown has a place in Las Vegas. I know a lot of tourists (myself included) that like having the downtown as an option when we visit. It’s like having two destinations for the price of one. I wish people would quit complaining about how downtown is not like the strip. I do agree that the owners of downtown proprties should be doing more to spruce up their places, especially the Plaza and Vegas Club.

    To me, downtown will always be a place I spend the night, even when I’m staying on the Strip

  7. What about Chicago Joe’s, Triple 7 Brewpub, Triple George, and the best corned beef sammich in town at the Horseshoe’s deli? Not gourmet by any stretch, but still good. This past New Years. FSE was a much better time than the Strip. You can’t get the Block Party feeling on the Strip. What’s wrong with diversity? Why don’t you appreciate the attempt to bring some hip restaurants to downtown? I really have to question why a proclaimed “downtowner” would be so negative about new things happening on Fremont Street. I love it because it’s the opposite of the Strip….ummm, well and because I can ride there on a bike from my house.

  8. Downtown Despos-

    Thank you! Shouldn’t we be supporting efforts to bring more culture into Downtown? The First Friday Art Walk is always a blast, and Fremont East has some surprisingly hip clubs. And getting back to the food, Triple George Grill really is one of those hidden gems… Along with Grotto at The Golden Nugget.

    And again, Firefly was great! While it does stick out like a sore thumb at The Plaza, at least the new owner is trying to bring some quality food to Fremont.

    As I said earlier, I honestly doubt Downtown will ever be like the epicurean nirvana that The Strip has become. But hey, maybe it’s not a bad thing. Not everyone likes what The Strip has become, so we should give tourists and locals the choice of an alternative destination Downtown.

  9. One of the most elitist, mean spirited and out of touch posts I’ve ever read. And then I had to listen to it on my KNPR itunes downloads! The Strip is overcrowded; filled with obnoxious, SoCal twentysomethings who can’t afford to be there; pretentious, middle aged people who can’t afford to be there; and the free attraction clogging immigrants who can’t afford to be there. It’ll be 10 years before capacity on the overbuilt Strip meets demand, and then the County will wake up in a panic because they have delayed the Ivanpah Airport and they’re maxed out on air travel capacity. How is anyone gonna afford to blow up Downtown?
    I’m 51 years old, my wife and I make over $100k per year, and we come to Las Vegas every 3-4 months. 9 times out of 10 we stay on the Strip, but it is becoming less fun because of the dour snobs that have become so prevalent.
    Downtown can be dirty, and the people can be scary, just like on the Strip. But at least they’re real, and letting the other guy have fun without looking down their nose at the person next to them because they ate at a buffet. Long live Downtown!

  10. i have another tired formula that should be blown up for you…

    “food critics” who attack only the things and people who can’t help them in order to self-promote and bring attention to themselves.

    “food critics” who seek and crave the celebrity status of the chef and restauranteur asses that they kiss deeply and regularly.

    “food critics” who use their bully-pulpits to spit venom selectively, only at the people who you don’t need or don’t need you, a great way to bring attention to you and your fake brash, no-holds-barred, self-promoting bs journalism at the expense of unsuspecting, often undeserving businesses.

    “food critics” who espouse blowing up all of the “poor” people and the places they go and stay. because the strip and the rich people at the Wynn are so great!

    you are so relevant, john curtas! so in the know and hip! so controversial! such a douchebag!

  11. It’s my first time logging on this site and at first I was pleased to find a critic doing the Vegas scene. Then as I continued to read I realized how completely out of touch Mr. Curtas is with everything, as well as being unable to describe in any coherent or useful fashion exactly what it is he specifically likes or dislike about anything. Seriously, it sounds like Beavis and Butthead become food critics.

    Mr. Curtas, let me tell ya, I travel this country for a living and I have never seen, heard or read anyone who espouses to be a legitimate critic of anything who comes across as the complete and total moron that you yourself seem to portray here so perfectly.

    Job Opportunity: LAS VEGAS FOOD CRITIC Job opening: Immediate, PLEASE!

  12. Firefly & Tinoco’s are wonderful additions. Why would you attack downtown for trying to add some well known local flavors. Not to mention the Omelet House at the Plaza as well. All are killer.
    Great food of all levels from classic steak houses to counter food.
    Hugo’s Cellar at the Four Queens
    Vic & Anthony’s at the Golden Nugget
    Second Street Grill at the Fremont
    Binion’s Ranch Steakhouse at Binion’s
    The Grotto
    Red Sushi
    Binion’s Burger Bar – rad burgers
    Chicago Brew Co.
    Triple 7
    The Kabob Korner
    Someone mentioned Chicago Joe’s – fabulous
    Mamacita’s mexican – may be a hole but some awesome food comes out of the hole
    Curtas is a bonehead. This is ridiculous.
    It is also a travesty that you have the balls to say anywhere should be blown up. You know who cares about the Union Plaza and Binion’s – those of us who work at the Union Plaza and Binion’s.

    NEWSFLASH – A HELL OF A LOT OF QUALITY PEOPLE WOULD MISS FREMONT STREET IF IT WERE GONE. JOHN CURTAS IS THE ONLY ONE WHO WOULD MISS ELV. TAKE THE DRIBBLE ELSEWHERE MR. CURTAS – THOSE OF US WHO ARE ACTUALLY DOWNTOWN SUPPORTERS (AS YOU CLAIM TO BE) AND NOT POSERS DON’T NEED YOUR TYPE OF “SUPPORT”.

  13. See what I was talking about, Mr. ELV? Contrary to what some here may believe, it seems there really are a whole lot of people who like the “Old Vegas” experience Downtown. And again, not all the food there is bad. While I do think Megan’s being a bit too harsh on Mr. ELV, I’m glad she mentioned Grotto at The Golden Nugget.

    Come on, there has been progress here lately with the First Friday Art Walks, the development of Fremont East as a boho/hipster/alternative nightlife scene, and the good new restaurants opening like Tinoco’s and Firefly. Yes, Downtown will NEVER be like The Strip. It just wasn’t made (and remade) to compete with the flashy glory of The Strip. But come on, is that always a bad thing?

    Sometimes I just prefer to let loose and relax to some tapas at Firefly or a quiet Italian dinner at Grotto before taking in a cheesy-but-fun Fremont Street video show and playing real nickels at a nickel machine. Why is that a bad thing?

  14. Megan: Are you a shill for Binions?

    You completely BLEW your credibility by including Binion’s Steakhouse on your list. The Ranch Steakhouse is a PERFECT example of how the “once” mighty have fallen.

    What used to be a really nice room with large portions, REAL gulf shrimp and quality service is now just a dreary experience with below average food and disinterested servers.

    It would be better if whichever hedge fund that owns the hotel these days decided to gut the place and rent it out for bar mitzvahs and Quinceañeras.

  15. Looks like you’re way off the mark yet again. Firefly at the Plaza is a hit. I go there regularly and it’s great and usually quite busy.

    You really hit the nail on the head!

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