People are always saying to us: “ELV.” We say” What?” They say: “ELV, why are you such a snob?” To which we reply: “What’s your point?”
More to the point, we then point out that if ELV liked everything, no one would pay any attention to what he had to say, and besides… Don’t you want a critic of anything, to be…uhmm….extremely discriminating in their tastes?
And then, we point out that one of our favorite places in town is the M & M Soul Food Cafe.
ELV can’t profess to having a lot of soul, but bein’ ed-jee-ka-ted in Kentucky and Tennessee gave him a certain kinship with this cuisine. It may not be fancy French, but African-American cooking is woven deep into the fabric of our culinary consciousness, and in ELV’s world, fried chicken is worthy of just as much adulation as a volaille de Bresse en cocotte.
Now aside from preventing starvation in all sorts of tasty ways, the M&M has as much in common with Guy Savoy as a bluegrass band does with the New York Philharmonic. But that doesn’t mean it can’t stir your soul in an equally delightful way.
Take M&M’s corn cakes for example. They come with every meal, are refilled constantly and are downright (and down home) corny, slightly sweet and light as air — not an easy feat.
Or that soul food staple: chicken and waffles. They ain’t exactly nouvelle cuisine, but the chicken is fried to a turn and the waffles taste just like the ones Grandma made.
Likewise, no one will confuse chitterlings (or chittlin’s as we called ’em in Kentucky) with Coquilles St. Jacques, but here they’re tender, only slightly funky, and possessed of a certain pepper kick that cuts through the gaminess.
Of course soul food isn’t always healthful, but the collard greens here taste just like they do south of the Mason Dixon line (and are probably the only thing on the menu that’s good for you), and they make certain amends for the special gravy smothering the smothered chicken, and the liver and onions — both of which are as finger lickin’ good as they can be.
There’s nothing fancy about M&M — in that respect the food matches the decor — but for a friendly breakfast and lunch spot, that cooks everything with care and to order, it fills the bill….and best of all, that bill is always as comfortable as the food.
M & M SOUL FOOD CAFE
3923 West Charleston Blvd.
Las Vegas, Nevada 89103