Food Express Chinese Cuisine (yes, that’s its real name) has been around since the early 90’s. The decor and lighting are so stark the place resembles the inside of a refrigerator. The things to order are the abalone, whole crabs and lobsters (all available at market prices and changing seasonally.*) It is very popular with natives of the Chinese persuasion, and fellow travelers who know a good thing at a good price.

If you’re looking for the real deal in Cantonese cooking, this is probably as cheap as it gets off the Strip. The staff at ELV finds some of its recipes too flat, funky and gummy for its taste (a criticism that could apply to Southern Chinese food in general), but there’s no denying the beauty of the fried squid or a whole, chopped up Dungeness in garlic and black bean sauce (and the beef with pineapple is pretty darn good too.) When in doubt as to what to order, just look at what one of the large, round tables of Asians are having, grab a waiter (figuratively not literally), point and ask. The Chinese don’t stand on a lot of ceremony in these matters so no one will be offended.

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* Lobster season is almost over. Dungeness crab season starts in mid-November.

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FOOD EXPRESS CHINESE CUISINE

2003 South Decatur Blvd.

Las Vegas, NV 89102

702.870.1595