Eating Rome (Italy, not Georgia)

It’s been a couple of years since ELV, The Official Number Two Son of ELV and
The Food Gal ate their way through Rome (Italy, not Georgia). But a friend called for restaurant recommendations there, giving us the excuse to post a list of our favorites from our last two visits. Buon gusto!

Checchino dal 1887 –Food from the “fifth quarter” of the animal; i.e. offal that’s awfully good. The pasta with baby lamb pajetes (small intestines) is a vegan’s nightmare and good beyond belief. Via Monte Testaccio, 30.

Sabatini-Italian seafood to die for….off a beautiful, small piazza in the Trastevere. Great proscuitto, even greater wine list. Expensive

Cul de Sac Enoteca-The bottles line the walls, the wooden tables are close together, and the formaggi and salumi perfect accompaniments to bottles you’d never find here. Rome has plenty of wine bars….this is our favorite. Off the Piazza Navona.

Dal Bolognese-Go for lunch. Watch Rome’s best dressed business folk chow down on bollito misto and frito misto (mixed meats or mixed, friend seafood). The giant, preserved fruits in the mostarda that comes with the meats is a marvel and as colorful as the crowd. Off the Piazza del Popolo.

Cafe Greco-have an espresso or cappuccino in a writer’s paradise that’s been around since before Keats and Shelley were composing poetry to each other at these tables. Casanova and Valentino were also regulars….although a not at the same time. Off the Piazza di Spagna (within a stone’s throw of the Spanish Steps).

Al Fontanone-Popular with locals. right across the Ponte Sisto (bridge) as you head to the Piazza Trilussa in the Trastevere. Some of the best pizza on this side on the Tiber.

Enoteca Cavour-Another great wine bar near the Colosseum.

Osteria St. Ana-Old, homey, stone-walled, family-run osteria near the Piazza del Popolo. Via della Penna, 68/69.

Trattoria Otello alla Concordia-There’s an old saying about Roman restaurants: The worse the art is on the walls, the better the food. There’s no better example in all of Italy (except maybe Dal Bolognese), than this family-run restaurant that serves serious food at bargain prices. Very popular. Via della Croce, 81.

Babbington’s Tea Rooms-Expensive, but a must for lovers of precious sandwiches and High Tea. Right off the Spanish Steps.

Antica Taverna-Intimate trattoria with good not great food near the Piazza Navona. Via Monte Giordano, 12.

As The Food Gal was under the impression there were things to do in Rome other than eat (?), this is the best I could do in seven days. Buon appetito!

A word or two about gelato. Gelaterias are all over Rome. Two things to look for in spotting a good one: If the tubs are plastic and not metal, the gelato was probably made off premises, and if the pistachio is bright green (instead of more natural, muted, grey-green in color), you’re getting a cheap, industrialized product. A sign that says Artigianale Gelateria on the shop, generally insures higher quality and the real deal.

1 thought on “Eating Rome (Italy, not Georgia)

  1. Hey John,
    Next time you want to try the best pizza a taglio in Roma (Pizza by the slice) try Pizzarium at via della Meloria 43. It is a perfect spot to stop by after going to the Vatican Museums.
    Great post, I get so frustrated when I see Americans eating at some crappy trattoria next to a tourist attraction.
    If you are going to spend thousands of dollars on an Italian vacation at least spend a little time and map out your meals. In my opinion Italy has the best cuisine in the world, but there are tourist traps everywhere that sell garbage not fit for the Olive Garden.

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