John Curtas is …


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The Best Cheeseburger….Ever?

Does that make your mouth water just looking at it or what?

Unfortunately, you’ll have to travel to Santa Fe (New Mexico, not Argentina) to sample it.

So that’s what we did with our staff this past weekend, where Number Two S0n was eager to show us the relocated, spruced-up, in-town digs of the old Bobcat Bite — a place world famous for its green chile cheeseburgers.

One bite told us his eagerness was understandable.

Because we haven’t had a truly great cheeseburger in Las Vegas since 2013 — the year we dejectedly refer to as the Waterloo of Vegas burgers.

Not since Bradley Ogden closed in Caesars several years ago have we tasted such beef. Not since Poshburger punted in the same year have we loved such a bun. And not since Elevation Burger kicked the can has the whole of a single burger exceeded the sum of its delicious parts.

Yep, in case you haven’t noticed, it’s been slim pickens for great burgers around these here parts….and we’ve yet to recover from those ground meat disasters of Napoleonic proportions.

We’re not disparaging the hand-tooled, $20+ wonders of places like Country Club Grill and Carnevino. No, we mean the loss of a good, basic burger, grilled in quantity, using great beef, seasoned to a “t” and encased in a yeasty-tangy, fluffy ciabatta-like bun like the one pictured above. A burger made by a grillmaster who knows how to get the edges crispy while losing none of the juice. A burger topped with New Mexican green chile, and cheese….that melts into the world’s greatest relish.

We’re talking New Mexican green chile cheeseburgers here, pilgrim….the apotheosis of the meat pie.

Even without the chile, that burger is one for the ages: tasting like the beefiest short rib or prime sirloin you’ve ever bit into (it’s actually ground chuck). That super squishy bun may look like air bread to you, but it was anything but….the dome having a slight, deceptive crackle to it, and the soft, forgiving crumb tasting of sweet, pungent sourdough.

Wrapping meat this good in such flattering accoutrements is like putting a gorgeous body in a tight dress. You won’t be able to take your eyes (or your lips) off it.

Unfortunately, you’ll have to travel 620 miles to taste it.

Sorry, but that’s the sad state of burger affairs in our humble burg.


311 Old Santa Fe Trail

Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501

Tasting Menu Tyranny

ELV note:  A quick aperitivo of opinion to whet thine appetite for the flurry of essential eateries to come:

(ELV’s worst nightmare)

A few of our ardent Facebook foodie friends (and we have many of them) have asked why we didn’t make it to Coi, Crenn, Benu or Saison on our just-finished, four-day trip to Frisco.

Our answer is simple (and – with apologies – a bit insulting): The last thing ELV wants or needs at this point in his insatiable existence is to be enslaved for 3+ hours by a team of 30 year old cooks assaulting his senses with dozens of “wildly inventive” teeny-tiny plates of overwrought tweezer food.

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ELV Leaves Town; Food World Mourns

Eating Las Vegas in general, and ELV in particular, will be heading out of town for the new few days to San Francisco, where he will be asserting and defending the legal rights of the City of Las Vegas in his new job as Deputy City Attorney.

Therefore, his posts on this Web site will be taking a short sabbatical. If you wish to follow his eating adventures in the City by the Bay (where he plans on squeezing in at least a half dozen spectacular meals), please feel free to join him on either Twitter @EatingLasVegas or Instagram @JohnCurtas. (Sorry, but our Facebook fan following is filled up with frolicking and fulsome foodies.)

That is all.

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