Every so often, we pause from surfing the soft-core porn and Asian massage ads in the Las Vegas Weekly to actually read something in it. This week, since the election, war in Iraq, stock market free-fall, gas and housing crisis might be a bit too much…er…uh…information for those consumed with whether to hit Prive, Christian Audigier or The Bank tonight, this ‘zine/free porn provider/club promotional device/etc. decided to feature The Ten Best Burgers in Vegas as its lead story.
And it gets everything wrong. Well, in a spirit of generosity, let’s say almost everything. There’s no argument with the In-N-Out double-double, or the sliders at CUT, or Brand (although who on God’s green earth wants to endure the clusterf*ck of trying to get to the Monte Carlo these days?)
But after those three, though, things get decidedly worse….and stupid to boot.
Because if you’re gonna feature the Top 10 Burgers….why not stick with….uhmm… HAMBURGERS? As in: round patties of cooked, ground beef? Instead, the “article” spreads the love (Do we smell advertising revenue? I think we do…) around to Veggie Burgers (The Claim Jumper?…Puhleeeze!); a Turkey Burger (a different subject entirely); a Lamb Burger and a Bison Burger (ditto).
Forsooth, not-so-fair-Weekly! Dost thou sayeth that the most regal of American foods, the hamburger, hath crossed the Martini Line? I beseech thee! Thou shall not condemn thy most royal of foods to the mendacity and mediocrity of poor Caesar (the much-maligned salad.) Do not, I beg thee, abandon thy noble burger!
But it would seem the Weekly has, since four of the Top 10 aren’t really hamburgers at all; and a fifth, the beyond-mediocre patty-melt at Kilroy’s (not technically a hamburger either), also made it onto this list. So now, if certain burghers (hambones? dillweeds?) are to be believed, we’re supposed to consider anything on a round bun (or any sandwich made with chopped anything) a “burger” (just like any drink in any martini-shaped glass can call itself one, and any salad made of romaine may hail to Caesar.)
Sadly, as long as vegetarians, something-for-everyone restaurateurs, and meretricious editors are around, the mighty American hamburger will face this onslaught of perversions. But methinks this humble-but-authentic creation won’t go gentle into that dark Applebee’s night of salmon/turkey/veggie/tofu burgers.
And any food writer that helps it to do so ought to be forced to spend a week eating this.
Purists unite! And forswear any attempts to call anything that isn’t a hamburger a “burger.”
And FYI: The Best Burger In Las Vegas is at Bradley Ogden. It is the Tiger Woods of cheeseburgers – when it’s on its game (which is every night at the bar at BO), the others are playing for second place. It’s also one of the best burgers in America.
So sayeth me and multiple James Beard Award Winner Alan Richman. Read about it in more detail here.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
p.s. For a great look at hamburger history, buy Josh Ozersky’s book on the subject here.
That veggie burger at Claim Jumper is decent enough, but nowhere near a top ten. Also found it very interesting that BLT Burger made it into the article considering it opened (presumably) a scant few days before deadline.
Best burger in town IMO is at BOA, on their lunch menu. Their prime and Kobe burgers, along with the steak sandwich, are some of the best values in Strip dining.
And I should also clarify about that Claim Jumper veggie burger that I agree wholeheartedly with John on the purist note. Top ten burgers should be mounds of ground beef :) Maybe the veggie people get a sidebar. Maybe.
Couldn’t agree more Carlo. And as much as I like BLT Burger, its inclusion was a blatant advertising ploy – something for which the Weekly (and the now defunct LVLife) is known for
….and please pardon my ungrammatical redundancy (and ending the sentence with a preposition) in that last comment. It’s just that I get more carried away than Michael Jackson at a Cub Scout convention whenever the subject of burger succulence comes up(!?)
I have found this same problem in the hundreds of free magazines that litter my mailbox. Vegas must be the capitol of the free community magazine.
Everytime I see a review of a restaurant and also see a large ad from that same restaurant I just laugh. These reviews and best of lists have really become nothing more than extensions of restaurant advertising.
Thank goodness for people like you John who give honest opinions. I must say I find Heidi Rinella’s reviews to also be honest and on target.
Good comment. The difference is, Heidi and I (even though I don’t always agree with her), aren’t selling anything except our opinions (that aren’t bought and paid for). Al Mancini in CityLife also does a good, honest job, but the Greenspun Media Group (parent company of LVWeekly,VEGAS, LVLife, etc.) long ago sold its journalistic soul to the advertising devil
Great info, thanks for the post!