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Breaking Martorano’s Balls

April 06, 2008 By: John Curtas Category: Celebrity Chef Hell, Reviews

We don’t know what’s more offensive about this ode to the Sopranos in the Rio: the glare, the stare, the unappetizing tats, or the $23 meatball on the menu.

The egotistical entreaty: “Don’t break my balls.” printed on the menu is a lame, preemptive strike against any Paulie Walnuts wannabe who might complain about the excessive prices, and the highly mediocre Southern Italian food. Single diners aren’t allowed at tables (even when the place is empty, and likely to remain that way for hours), and no one is allowed to drink cocktails in the dining room for fear of corrupting such innovative recipes as chicken parmagiana and veal marsala.

That $23 meatball, is no joke either, and whether you are a meatball, or just love them, you’ll find better ones at Rao’s just down the street.

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2 Responses to “ Breaking Martorano’s Balls ”

  1. # 1 LVMaddy Says:
    May 26th, 2008 at 3:21 pm

    I found the food here to be more than passable. What turned my stomach were the Soprano’s clips on the big screens all round specially picked for their violence and wife-abuse . . .

  2. # 2 LVLocal Says:
    May 31st, 2008 at 5:00 pm

    A $23 meatball that works as a great appetiser for 2 people and served with an amazingly tasty salad featuring fresh ricotta – delicious and completely worth it – its the highlight of the menu!

    Martorano’s is not traditional, the video clips and music are picked to add to its very individual atmosphere (which is directly linked to the owner’s heritage), and the food, the experience, the service, the wines, everything… is 2nd to none.

    “Part restaurant, part nightclub” makes no false promises of quiet elegant dining….. but it does serve up a top meal in a fresh atmosphere.

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