(Russia) is a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma. – Winston Churchill (October, 1939)
Speaking of enigmas, is this place a night club or a restaurant? More importantly, will it ever get enough customers to justify whatever expense it took to convert the space from the Thai Room II, and is the food worth a trip to Las Vegas Blvd. South (beside The Bootlegger) to supp on some serious Soviet sustenance? Continue reading “MATRYOSHKA”
Dear Readers, Yours truly has a book in him he will probably never write. But we do have a few chapters in the can, so occasionally, we will share them with you. Below is one such installment, submitted for your approval:
HOW TO BE A RESTAURANT CRITIC
In the beginning there was Lucius Beebe and Duncan Hines. Then came Clementine Paddleford and Craig Claiborne. And finally, there was Seymour Britchky — the man who made restaurant writing entertaining on its own terms.
It’s a steal because the bread and cheese cart selections alone are worth at least half that, and the accommodating staff let’s you chow down on those as much as you want. (FYI: you do pay a $15 surcharge for the cheese cart, but that’s an even bigger bargain if you’re a certified Franco-philic fromage forager like yours truly.