ELV Dreams of HIROYOSHI

My respect for Asian chefs — Japanese in particular — has always surpassed my feelings for many of their European and American counterparts. Not because they work harder or are better cooks (which may or may not be true), but because they readily make sacrifices we round eyes are unwilling to suffer.

Everyone from Wolfgang Puck to your average line cook loves to give lip service to opening a “small, personal restaurant where I can cook my food for friends and others who appreciate it,” but that’s a bunch of hooey (dished to credulous critics and such) and they know it. Truth be told, once you’ve got a taste for casino money — whether as an employee or owner — the idea of risking it all for the uncertainty of running your own, barely profitable business is a gamble very few want to take.

Except for Asian chefs — Japanese in particular.

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EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants Hits the Home Stretch

If you’re one of our loyal readers, you may have noticed that our restaurant reporting has been a bit sparse over the past two months. This is because most of our energies have been going into completing the copy for the next edition of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants, which, we hope, will be ready for publication in early March.

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CHOW Time

Hating Mr. Chow is practically a right of passage for most food writers.

This is understandable because the food at Mr. Chow has always been pretty much beside the point. Because Mr. Chow, for the uninitiated among you, has always been about the scene. But it’s also about a certain slice of social history, and the “exaggerated elegance” (Frank Bruni’s words) of Chinese cuisine. But most of all, Mr. Chow is about status. But that is about to change, at least in Vegas. Allow us to explain.

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