The “bigger the better” is, though a common, not a universal rule; it does not, for instance, apply to fish, nor to mutton….But it generally applies to receptacles of wine, and to those of champagne very specially. – George Saintsbury
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Re Richman’s GQ Riesling piece, I might add a Snowqualmie reference: http://www.snoqualmie.com/Wines/naked_wines/2009_riesling.