WING LEI
3131 Las Vegas Blvd. So.
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702.770.1614
Wing Lei, at the Wynn, is the only Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant in America. Chef Richard Chen creates a menu that is fascinating (and manageable) whether you’re an Asian high-roller or someone who thinks sweet and sour pork is as exotic as it gets.
I’ve had two recent meals here-one a big deal, pull-out-all-the-stops one with John Mariani-the other anonymously-and both have been deeply flavorful and technically perfect.
The service is also some of the most polished in Vegas-and that’s really saying something.
Amazingly, I also found an Alsatian Tokay-Pinot Gris from Pierre Frick (’03) for $57 that went splendidly with the food. Has my friend-Danielle Price-uber-wino and Wynn Wine Director-heeded my entreaties and worked towards bringing affordable wines to the Wynn’s Murderer’s Row of restaurants? We’d like to think so, and thus are taking full credit for this fabulous Frick find….even if it isn’t deserved. ;-}
I’ve been to Wing Lei once since hearing of their earning a Michelin star and ONLY because of their winning this star did I try their menu.
I tend to find that this type of food is generally best at small Chinatown like hole-in-the-wall places and wonder what they could do to it, other than bastardize its authenticity, to bring it up to this dining benchmark. Overall, I did find that all of the finishing sauces were refined and had an added subtle and well-balanced flavor above, and pleasantly beyond, the typical hole-in-the-wall places.
But still, I couldn’t help but wonder if it is worth the price. The menu seems to play it too safe for the ex-pats and possibly for the locals too. I find more fire and pizzaz on any menu in the faux-come-reality Chinatown malls along Spring Mountain Road. Although, the places on the strip do have the best Peking Duck anywhere (including those I’ve had in China) and the best teas at a “steep” price to boot.
love your reviews – and I look forward to the next to come.
I forgot to mention that the tea service at Wing Lei features some extraordinary varieties…albeit at a “steep” price. And I agree that the Chinese restaurants on Spring Mountain Rd. offer more bang for the buck (e.g. Dong Ting Spring, Yunnan Garden, Emperor’s Szechuan, et al….), but for a elegant, big deal Chinese meal, I’ll go to Wing Lei above all others.
John-thank you so much for bringing the delicious cuisine at Wing Lei to our attention.
I think the true measure of the talents of Chef Chen can be found in his seasonal tasting menus-and that is where I think one will discover the creativity that was recognized by Michelin.
When I dined at Wing Lei last year they had no problem creating a special tasting menu for me-I simply asked when I made the reservation and they obliged my request.
Chef Chen is unique in terms of preparing tasting menus. Most high-end Chinese restaurants don’t really do seasonal tasting menus. They may present you with a menu of numerous courses-but the dishes are the standards that they prepare every day-with only the occasional seasonal ingredient. Chef Chen has ventured out in terms of doing tasting menus composed of seasonal ingredients-think fresh asparagus, peas and morels in Chinese dishes presented in late Spring and early Summer. Now that’s unique.