ESTIATORIO MILOS – Big Fish

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“In Spain and Europe, even middle class people are proud to spend their money on the best, fresh food from farmers and fisherman. But too many people here (read: Americans) have gotten spoiled and now want everything cheap.” So says José Andrés (arguably the chef with the most food cred in America right now) to me as we discuss the most remarkable restaurant to open in Las Vegas in the past five years. Essentially, that restaurant is his competition — sitting as it does a stone’s throw from Jaleo (his just-opened spot) across the third floor of The Cosmopolitan — in what will soon be called The Ultimate Gourmet Food Court by every gastronome in America.

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ELV is Just Mad About Saffron…

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…and Saffron’s mad about ELV.

This stuff (saffron – the rare, expensive, hard to cultivate stigma of the crocus plant) turns the out-of-this-world paellas at Jaleo their distinctive color, adds a deep, haunting muskiness to the flavor of this dish, and makes a lot more sense in Spanish cooking than these lyrics ever did in this song.

Quite rightly.

NNPK (No Name Pizza Kitchen) – Nice Slices

No name, no address, no signage, and some seriously nice slices.

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We at ELV thought we’d ease in to telling you all about the fabolous restaurants sitting cheek to jowl on The Cosmopolitan’s Gourmet Food Court From Heaven by first focusing on the most modest (and least expensive and toughest to find) eatery on the third floor of this soon-to-be-world-famous-place.

It has no name, nor does it have any signage. To find it, look for a long hallway in between Jaleo and Blue Ribbon where you find the walls lined with cheesy old album covers. (Jerry Vale anyone? Anyone?) At the end of the hall, an old (and functioning) pinball machine will get your attention. As will a cool, lifesize b/w street photo/graphic on one wall, and a classic Galaga video game (straight from 1981) on the other. To your right will be a wall with three employees, four pizza ovens and five or six of the best pies in town…all begging for you to try a slice.

We only had one — the white, all-cheese pizza — but it was a marvel. Thin (but not too thin) crispy crust, charred and blistered just so, topped by good ingredients in proper proportion. Like all New York-style pies, it folded in half perfectly and made for a tasty treat on the go. (“On the go” is this sense meant as we were going out the door after having had lunch at Comme Ça and dinner at D.O.C.G.)

Pizzaiolo Nico seemed to have enough pizza enthusiasm for a whole chain of Domino’s, and his partner in pizza making, while shyer, was no less seriously into his work.

We were so taken with this place we think NNPK makes for a mandatory stop by any galloping gourmand, whether coming to or from one of the eight superstar restaurants here.

Slices are priced between $3-$5. Ours was so good we forgot how much we paid.

NNPK (No Name Pizza Kitchen)

In The Cosmopolitan Hotel and Casino

3708 Las Vegas Blvd. South

Las Vegas, NV 89109

No Phone

No website

No Signage

Nice Slices