EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants – Number Eight

8. KABUTO EDOMAE SUSHI

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ELV note: Gen-san, the sushi master who opened Kabuto and was largely responsible for its early and stellar reputation, left the business a few months ago. Our last omakase dinner there was a few weeks before he left and it was as pristine as ever. Although we haven’t been in the three months since, reports from our regs and other sushi hounds around town tell us neither the quality of the fish nor the experience has suffered.

Let’s get a few things straight, shall we? If you like things like “Firecracker” rolls, “Spider” rolls and “Dynamite” rolls, then you should roll right past this sign-less jewel box on Spring Mountain Road.

Or, perhaps you are in love with some neighborhood sushi joint that “specializes” in rolled rice concoctions with more characters than a “Game of Thrones” episode. If so, then stay away. Kabuto Edomae Sushi is too good for you.

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NOBU, Negated

Nothing about this place is as good as its reputation. – Seymour Britchky

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Nobu is the perfect example of what happens when a celebrity chef gives up, sells out and cashes in. It is the gastronomic equivalent of a once-innovative cook deciding to abandon his legacy to the highest bidder and spend his retirement padding around his culinary house in a succulent silk robe and savory slippers.

None of this is surprising. By now, everyone knows Las Vegas is where they all come when it’s time to settle back and rake in the cash, because our captive audience of 40 million yearly visitors are credulous enough to buy the hype and settle for what little substance they get. But, not being rookies to the celeb chef rodeo, Eating Las Vegas‘ savvy readers know that it is those customers who ultimately pay for the luxury that these (former) titans of gastronomy and their retainers enjoy.

Las Vegas is also where our brimming-with-cash casinos are more that willing to throw money at an established chef’s brand in hopes it will save them from the food and beverage disasters they inflict upon themselves when left to their own devices (cf. Wynn Hotel/Switch). The money men behind Nobu know this, so this is where they’ve decided to plant his flag one last time time before he sails into the Peruvian-Japanese sunset.

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