PIZZA AGONISTES by John Mariani

ELV note: This article is from the current edition of John Mariani’s Virtual Gourmet and originally appeared on Esquire.com. We re-publish it here on the slim chance that a few of our loyal readers do not already subscribe to Mariani’s essential Web publication. Read away in either format and prepare to get hungry.

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It’s been a bad month for bad pizza. First, Sbarro announced the closing of 155 of its 400 U.S. stores, then declared bankruptcy. Again.  Then, in one of the few conservative judicial decisions I actually applaud, Justice Antonin Scalia, born in Trenton, NJ, declared that Chicago-style deep-dish pizza “shouldn’t be called pizza. It’s very tasty, but it’s not pizza.”

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NOVECENTO Squares Off Against SETTEBELLO

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Las Vegas’s pizza IQ has increased by cheesy leaps and bready bounds over the past 5 years. Franchised dreck (or Radio City dreck….or even the sadly declined Due Forni drivel) just won’t cut it anymore. Between the seminal slabs of Settebello succulence and the passionate pies of Pop-Up Pizza, true aficionados of artisanal pizzas now have multiple places to go when they’re craving top shelf ingredients displayed on superlative crusts.

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NOVECENTO PIZZERIA: Gone in 90 Seconds

An opening down on the Eastern/215, of a unique, rustic pizza place leaves everyone asking the same question, “This isn’t the first location?”

The CHOICES!

Opened about 10 months ago and a good 25 miles away, Novecento the First is nestled far, far, far, far further than anyone should consider driving for a slice of ‘zah.  Hence the limited audience, until Novecento the Second opened a few weeks ago.  Good word after good word got me in there, and I’m really glad I did.

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