PATISSERIE MANON – So Very Very French

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Do you love good pastries?

We do.

Do you love what the French have done over the past four hundred years to the art of refined sugar, white flour, butter, cream, chocolate and dough?

Let’s face it who doesn’t?

Have you been consistently disappointed with the baked goods at the West Charleston Whole Foods in the past year (ever since it changed suppliers)?

Let’s face it who hasn’t?

Do you hate supermarket bakeries with a passion?

Of course you do.

Assuming all of the above questions were answered in the affirmative (and if you’re reading ELV, we assume you have the brains/good taste to do so) then you need to make a beeline to the space formerly housing Bleu Gourmet (right behind Fleming’s) where Jean-Paul Layden and his wife Rachel have opened a pastry shop that brings superior baked sweets (and savories) to the neighborhoods.

Layden hales from Dunkerque in northern France, and his missus was born in Brittany — making them as French as La Marseillaise. They operate two patisseries in Tahiti, of all places, and apparently thought those environs were too confining for their talents, compared to our humble burg, so east they came to raise Vegas’ pastry IQ.

And raise it they have, with delicate, intense macarons, eclairs from heaven, nice croissant (and pain au chocolate), and a bear claw-like “almond croissant” that is soft, nutty, chewy, and worth going out of your way for. On our croissant-o-meter, these rank a half a click below Payard’s, and maybe a notch less buttery than those at the patisserie just to the west of the entrance to the Gare du Nord in Paris (France, not Kentucky)…but that doesn’t mean they aren’t darn good.

Also worth a trip are the daily quiches and specials, ranging from a béchamel-infused croque monsieur, to the occasional cassoulet.

But there is a problem.

Because the previous operator in this space was operating a restaurant much larger than its lease and business license allowed, the Layden’s have had to re-configure the space and get additional approvals before they can operate a café here, as opposed to just selling their wares over the counter. Everything is on track, but it may still be some days (or weeks) before you can sit down on premises and enjoy these superlative pastries.

In the meantime, you’ll just have to stop by, say “bonjour,” grab a baguette, and experience a little slice of Paris in a town that needs more of them.

PATISSERIE MANON

8751 W. Charleston Blvd.

Las Vegas, NV 89117

702.586.2666

Also with a Boulder City location:

534 Boulder Highway

Boulder City, NV 89005

702.476.3131

www.patisseriemanon.com

A Day with Joel, Guy, a Hottie and a Hare

Life is so brief that we should not glance either too far backwards or forwards…therefore study how to fix our happiness in our glass and on our plateGrimod de la Reyniere

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It’s no secret that ELV is an inveterate Francophile. Since the days of Thomas Jefferson, it has been French food, French restaurants, and most especially French chefs who have led America out of its uncouth culinary youth and into the promised land of good eating. China may be the greatest of all world cuisines, but it is French technique and savoir faire that have been most responsible for Americans eating well.

Because of this, as just about every food fan in Vegas knows, we’ve been in sauté/cassoulet/à votre santé heaven over the last five years — ever since Joël (as in Robuchon) and Guy (as in Savoy) planted their flags on our soil. And if you’ll forgive us a bit of local pride, neither New York nor Chicago nor L.A. nor ‘Frisco has seduced these luminaries (along with paisans Pierre Gagnaire and Alain Ducasse), the way our humble burg has.

It’s all about money of course — 38 million mouths are more tempting than the cut-throat, small bore Manhattan restaurant scene, or San Francisco’s provincial one — but because the crème de la crème are here and not there, the baseline for great cooking in the High Mojave has been forever raised and spoiled us for anything that doesn’t measure up.

To such thoughts did ELV’s mind wander as he appeared at the Fox 5 studios to watch Robuchon give his first Las Vegas TV interview (and one of the few interviews he’s ever done in America) recently. Besides kibbitzing with him, and James Beard Southwest Chef of the Year Claude Le Tohic, and G.M. Emmanuel Cornet, we got to hang with Fox 5’s foxy Rachel Smith:

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(KVVU’s resident foodie), and hear Joël compliment our book and thank us for being such big supporters of Vegas’ French Foodie Revolution. To which we could only reply de rien, Mon. Robuchon.

From hobnobbing with JR, it was only a short stroll over to Restaurant Guy Savoy for its autumn menu, featuring lièvre à la royale (wild hare fit for a king). Waverly Root defines this hare-raising dish as a creation from the Limousin (Central Plateau) area of France. It is a dish so famous that in the eighteenth century, a special terrine/earthenware dish was invented for it. (If you’ve ever seen those oval-shaped, rabbit-covered terrines in Williams-Sonoma, you get the idea.) Root says: “Its chief distinction was its stuffing, into which went the liver, heart and lungs of the hare, hashed up together; cooked with goose foie gras; fat pork; bread crumbs soaked in bouillon; chopped onions previously cooked in butter, chopped truffles and parsley; a little garlic and hare’s blood.”

That blood (and those lungs, heart and liver), give this dish a wild, gamy funk that is one of the most unique in gastronomy. It is not for the faint of heart…or hare…but is one of those essential dishes to try if you ever want to establish your gourmet bona fides, or cross swords, or stubby fingers with the likes of Reyniere. Super-somm Phil Park matched it perfectly with a La Chappelle (no relation to Dave) de la Mission Haut-Brion (’99)that, like that wabbit, had a finish so long we’re still tasting it.

ELV left a $95 tip on his comped meal that would’ve been a Benjamin if he hadn’t needed an Abe for the valet.

RESTAURANT GUY SAVOY

In Caesars Palace Hotel and Casino

3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South

Las Vegas, NV 89109

702.731.7286

www.guysavoy.com