ELV’s Thought for the Day

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At the end of this month (April) one see the points of asparagus emerge, something which brings a great consolation to those who, tired of potatoes and dried cereals, long for something green. This vegetable, always dear in Paris, and only seemly for the rich because it is not very substantial and somewhat aphrodisiacal, is a very delicate food. The large stalks, cooked in water, are served to be eaten either with a white sauce or with oil. The small ones are served like peas to deceive our hopes and calm our impatience. But so soon as real peas come in one does not dare present them in this guise. It is thus that a beauty with the aid of fine lighting, having stolen our praises flees at the prospect dawn for she dares not risk comparison with an Hebe (young woman) of just eighteen springs. – Grimod de la Reyniere

ELV’s Thought for the Day

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The old-school kitchen — a crucible that made great cooks — is dead. I think of the chefs I know who are running tiny restaurants turning out honestly artful food, working every night in the kitchen. guys who did it the right way, the hard way, the French way. After the rush of success and praise that only comes after years and years of toil, what’s left? – David Chang

What’s left David is, you’re a cook. A craftsman who takes great pride in their work for which they have sweated and strained. It’s either that or becoming someone who wants to be a businessman or, even worse, a TV star. The formerĀ  gains self-esteem and sustenance from a job well done; the latter travels a path where money and fame are the only rewards. Unless your name is Daniel Boulud (and a handful of others — all French) you can’t be both.