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The food at Beijing Noodle #9 is so delicate, polished, and hyper-delicious, it’s almost scary. Chef de Cuisine Li Yu and his cooks present Chinese food on a level most Americans are unfamiliar with — taking classics like kung pao chicken, black pepper beef and soup dumplings and elevating them to an almost pristine level of refinement that you will not find outside of a formal Chinese banquet. (For the uninitiated, Chinese banquets represent the ne plus ultra of their cooking arts.)