Wine Rant

Christopher Hitchens is the eminently readable, perennially pissed-off and pickled political columnist for Vanity Fair and Slate.  He is also a wine buff.  This British ex-pat has gored more oxes than the Kagashima Prefecture (e.g. calling Henry Kissinger  a criminal who ought to be indicted for war crimes), and is no stranger to controversy.  We therefore thought he was too preoccupied with weightier matters (e.g. Israeli-Palestinian relations, Iran-Iraqi issues, George W.’s mental malaprops, etc.) to concern himself with something as mundane as the service of wine.

But, as you will see from the link below, waiters who continously pour wine without permission or request are as offensive to him as Mahmed Ahmadinejad at a jihadist pep rally.

Click here to read Hitchen’s wine rant.

He was a great chef, as chefs go, and as chefs go, he went.

Chefs generally have the attention span of a housefly.  They are the most peripatetic of creatures-ADD acolytes whose capacity for providing gastronomic pleasure is inversely proportional to their low threshold for boredom.  Thus have two prominent local chefs-Christophe Ithurrize (Marche Bacchus) and Jean-David Groff Daudet (Pamplemousse)- moved on, after less than a year at those venues-proving once again the accuracy of that aphorism and those observations.  Details of both partings are sketchy and will be provided as they become available.  In the meantime, we wish them well.  Wherever they land will be lucky to get them.

Meet Me In St. Louis

The St. Louis dining scene is hardly cutting edge, but if you’re looking for old-time Italian charm, look no further.  This week’s installment on John Mariani’s website features two St. Louis classics + Larry Forgione’s An American Place. Forgione successfully transferred his small-carbon-footprint, locally-driven philosophy from The Big Apple to The Gateway To The West 3 years ago.  For a preview of what his Vegas outpost might look and taste like (slated to open at the Wynn later this year), you can read about AAP + 2 classic Italian places that occupy top spots in the St. Louis restaurant hierarchy.

Click here to read my tale of St. Louis dining at