KUNG FU THAI & CHINESE RESTAURANT

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Kung Fu Thai & Chinese Restaurant isn’t the best Thai restaurant in town, but it’s far from the worst (recently, that would be Krung Siam directly across the street).

But we at ELV like it because their version of “medium hot” (or #5 on a 1-10 scale) is blow-your-off-head-slap-my-ass-and-call-me-Sally-hot.

And they make a mean yen ta fo — that rice noodles in red fish soup concoction that came to Thailand from China and found a home among that Thailand’s storied noodle soups. Fish balls are essential ingredients, but we like this version for its big, firm shrimp and scored squid, that share the bowl with a spicy-sweet-vinegary broth.

The braised pork shank is also a winner — heavy with the scent of 5 spice powder — and the squid salad is one of the best versions around (although, once again, heavily coated with chilies to the point where most gaijin can’t take it above a 2-3 on the 1-10 scale).

The funny part about Kung Fu is, it’s usually packed with loads of folks there for their cheap, Chinese lunch specials. Look around the room and you see precious few fellow travelers getting the good stuff. Truth be told, we’d eaten here several times before, and dismissed it as a mediocre restaurant until we were clued in to look for the offbeat Thai dishes.

They’ve also cleaned it up and put some new furniture in lately, removing the dowdiness that defined the joint for many years.

We still think Archi’s and Lotus of Siam kick its Thai patootey, but in a pinch, and when you’ve got a yen for some yen ta fo….Kung Fu will fill the bill, Grasshopper.

KUNG FU THAI & CHINESE RESTAURANT

3505 South Valley View Blvd.

Las Vegas, NV 89103

702.247.4120

http://www.kungfuplaza.com/home.htm

What Happened to HEDARY’S?

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Eating Las Vegas would like to know: What happened to Hedary’s?

We’ve eaten here at least twenty times over the years, have loved it, and have never had a plate of food served to us as sloppy as the  one pictured above.

That sujuk was as tough and unappealing to bite into as the picture indicates.

Although to be fair, the tabouli was good (but can it ever be bad?), and our dining companion loved her lamb kabobs.

But come on! Neither dish was really of restaurant quality, the pita bread was puffy but cold and stale, and the overtaxed service and overall vibe of the place made ELV think something was amiss with the ownership and/or the kitchen.

Any information from our intrepid readers would be appreciated, but for the time being, wethinks this place is missing something, and sadly, can no longer recommend it.

HEDARY’S MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT

7365 West Sahara Ave.

Las Vegas, NV 89117-2718

702.873.9041

www.hedarys.com

OPUS TOO Lunch

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The only problem with the $10, three course lunch at Opus Too in the International Culinary School in Henderson is only two more days are available to dine there (next Tuesday and Wednesday) before it closes for a break. It will then re-open on July 15th.

If you can reserve a table at the tiny, 32 seat dining room, do so. because it not only helps these students hone their craft, it’s also the best friggin’ deal in town for a three course, hand-made, finely-tuned French lunch.

And did we mention that the whole kit and kaboodle costs ten bucks?

For food like a savory lamb stew, fried goat cheese salad, and sweet, properly sauteed scallops — followed by desserts that would be right at home at any high falutin’ Strip restaurant.

Instructor/Chefs Claude Cevasco and Edward Shortsleeve (Claude, French to the bone; Edward, of Algonquin Indian lineage) oversee what is actually a living classroom — the students rotate through in 33 day cycles — with every one of them working as a chef and waiter, in equal portions, during that time.

All of the food is made according to classic (mostly French) preparations, and most of it will have you dropping your fork in appreciation. In fact, the onion soup — a deeply rich, long-cooked,  onion-laden classic stock, capped with good Gruyere — is among the best versions we’ve had, anywhere. Ditto the pretzel bread. And the jelly roll cake.

The menus change every week, so what we enjoyed will be a dim memory by the time a new kitchen crew starts experimenting. But the tiny space, and those students, are so charming, you are guaranteed a good time.

One more thing, the place, when it IS open, only serves lunch and dinner Tues.-Weds.-Thurs.. So if you don’t get in next week, you’ll have to wait for the summer session to start to get a taste of Las Vegas’ best restaurant bargain.

Believe ELV…it’s worth the wait.

Lunch at Opus Too is $10; dinner is $15. The food would be worth it at twice the price. There is a small, moderately-priced wine list.

OPUS TOO

At the International Culinary School

2350 Corporate Circle

Henderson, NV 89074

702.992.8500