Oysters, Oysters, Oysters!

Never eat oysters in any month without a paycheck in it. – P.J. O’Rourke

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It’s something of a tradition around the ELV household to chow down on ersters in our humble burg before the hot weather hits.

Usually we hit Bouchon and/or RM Seafood for a dozen or two, washed down with some of that there Fussy-Pussy wine, and then forget our shellfish hankerins until October rolls around. (Despite what oysters producers, restaurants, and more than a few writers tell you, oysters are not as sweet or firm in the summer months, because that’s when they breed — becoming tired, flabby and watery in the process — sorta like humans.)

This year we decided to break with tradition and check out the varieties at Morels Steakhouse — long known for its French-i-fied steaks, erotic murals: [imagebrowser id=1122]

….cheese platters and freshly displayed bivalve mollusks.

We knew they’d be good, but we didn’t expect them to be this good. The Hama Hamas and Kumamotos tasted like they just lept off a boat…and the flatter, bigger Malpeques had just that light, clean essence they are known for.

If those weren’t good enough, the parsley-olive oil dip here (along with the yeasty, crusty bread), is worth a special trip all by itself.

Morels seems to be a good joint in the process of trying to make itself a great one. Now that the Wynn/Encore seems to be abandoning its haute gourmand mission, it may soon become our first steak stop along Las Vegas Blvd. South. (and yet another in Venetian/Palazzo’s Murderer’s Row of Steakhouses)

MORELS FRENCH STEAKHOUSE

In The Palazzo Hotel and Casino

3325 Las Vegas Blvd. South

Las Vegas, NV 89109

702.607.6333

http://www.palazzo.com/morels.aspx

ELV Thought for the Day

Good writing should write up to its audience. The trouble with our newspaper (the Review-Journal) is that it writes down to its audience. – Max Jacobson (at Culinary Conversations at Vegas Uncork’d)

Translation: Writing down is not talking down. When you write up to your audience, you seek to raise their level of consciousness and elevate the conversation. The R-J (at least when it comes to food/restaurant writing), is hopelessly mired in writing for, and speaking to, the lowest common denominator of its readership. Pity.

This Just In – Saipin Chutima, Jose Andres Win James Beard Awards

Good evening Mr. and Mrs. America and all the ships at sea.

Item: José Andrés wins James Beard Award tonight for Outstanding Chef.

Item: Saipin Chutima of our very own Lotus of Siam ties with some guy from Austin, Texas for Best Chef Southwest. (In other words: The Thai tied.)

Item: Most of the major awards go to New York City chefs and restaurants. (Filed under: So What Else Is New?)

Item: Gabriel Rucker of Le Pigeon in Portlandia, Oregon wins rising star chef.

Item: Robert (Lucci) Smith and Picasso get passed over for the fifth time for Outstanding Wine Service.

Item: ABC Kitchen, one of the New York restaurants ELV did vote for, wins Best New Restaurant.

Item: Click here for the complete list of winners.

Item: In his capacity as a JBF voter, ELV vows to continue nominating, lobbying and voting for Smith until justice is done!